GT3 Amateur League

By now you should hopefully have some cash saved from the Beginner's League and World Championship. You'll probably need an assortment of at least 2 sets of tire types, and some improved parts (better brakes, limited-slip, racing gearbox, etc.) to make this series fair for both you and the computer.

It helps to concentrate your money into one beloved car, selling off some prize or barely-modified autos you don't need. I've raced these 5 events in a Silvia Q's and Camaro Z/28 (both with Stage 2 weight), and an Opel Speedster and 300 ZX with no weight redux (hence the flyweight / lightweight / middleweight / heavyweight system above). And here's a few pointers:

1. The NSX is the toughest to race against. If it shows try subtracting .74 from the ratios above if you're in a heavier car and having trouble keeping up with it.

• I used everything from slick {T3} to medium soft {T6} tires. At Super Speedway, for some reason you'll need harder tires than you will at the other races, otherwise you'll have too much corner advantage.

• Light to Middle-weight class cars can use racing medium to racing soft {T5 to T6}. Heavier cars will tend to be on slick {T3 and 4} tires UNLESS they can only get equal qualifing times on softer tires. Many of you should be on normal or sports at Super Speedway. Use semi-racing suspension for all trax.
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AMERICAN CHAMPIONSHIP

Here, the Shelby Cobra is the Star at times, mostly due to its low power / weight ratio, but it has limits....on many straights, its stock 4-speed will rev out of redline and it won't top 134 mph, plus it handles like a wet bar of soap and the driver hasn't got a clue. Problem is, when you're trying to pass him in corners, he'll use too much brakes, slam into you, and even spin out... anything to block your path. Is this what PD means by "adaptive Ai"?

• Sometimes, a Corvette CR5 appears, but i personally choose not to race against it. The CR5 is way out of line in this early Amateur's League race...like a gladiator at a spring picnic.

To me, the American Championship doesn't feel as energizing and competitive as the Japanese. Seattle can be tough unless you're well-rehearsed, but this is due to the track itself, not the competition. Laguna is a joke...in some races the AI spends almost as much time in the sand as it does on the tarmac! Here, the Cobra seems to experiment with new and improved ideas in stupidity. Funny to watch i guess, but again--not a true challenge.

For all these reasons, it is difficult to gauge which tires to use. For some tracks, (in a big, heavy car assuming you're not using too much power {no Vipers!}) qualifying on slick tires but switching to mediums for the race is best to avoid the sloppy Cobra. At others, the reverse is true. In smaller medium-light weight Japanese cars, the P2P will need to be lower (which is rare) possibly because they don't have the stability and raw torque out of corners Americans possess.

• I've given tire codes above to hopefully make a fair guide. Q stands for qualifying and R for the race itself. Lighter cars may need to be on softer tires (1 to 3 steps softer) than what's posted. Again, use Semi-Racing Suspension.
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EUROPEAN CHAMPIONSHIP

The main sim cars to watch for here are the Pagani Zonda, Lotus Elise 190, Opel Speedster, and sometiems the trusty TVR Griffith. All of them are great-handling, lightweight and fast + whoever is driving them is more capable than the sloppy Americans. 90% of the time they are immune to clumsiness. But they do make mistakes occasionally, so use these times to get by them.

• These races get harder as you go along, so try using anything from Medium Slick {T3} to Medium Soft {T6} (see above in the W2P section) as each race progresses. Semi-racing suspension, too.

I was initially disappointed with this series, which to me looked like it would be GT3's version of the GT500 since several of our old buddies are here. The Oreca Viper will dominate early on if it shows up, but in some races it'll have to pit...then your competition will unfortuately be underpowered. But beware! At tracks like Route 11 and Grand Valley, the Viper can catch up and pass you in the last lap. Also, a Corvette C5R will battle but the Viper is the one to watch.

What's cool about the GTWC I-B is in some races, certain cars have strength, and in others they will lag. This makes the series a bit unpredictable. The resulting points war REALLY becomes vicious in those last 5 races.

1> limit your power so you wind up directly competeing with the JGTC's, letting the Americans get far ahead (they'll have to pit and lose their lead anyways). This method works at Route 246, Deep Forest, and Apricot Hill.

2> Boost power till you can keep up with the Americans. This works at Laguna Seca, Trail Mountain, Route 5, Seattle, Route 11, and Grand Valley--those last 2 races assume the Oreca Viper is present. I've included P2P ratios for each method.

3> Midfield is the odd one here. It is a classic horsepower track, and this means you'll need to be able to keep up with the JGTC cars--which all the sudden are flying since they're not burdened with so many turns. Don't worry about the Americans, they're still not getting the clue, and will take a pit.

In a lesser car (like a Ford Focus WRC or Subaru Impreza rally car) using softer tires during qualifying is recommened to gain pole position at Midfield, Route 11, and Grand Valley because the AI drives more aggressively and it's recommended to just stay ahead of them unless you're driving an Oreca Viper or something, otherwise they will tend to gang up on you in those corners. *bash bing bong* Soo annoying.

Keep in mind that in a 10 race / 5-lap per race series, so you're gonna be doing 50 laps of racing + another 20 of qualifying (maybe more). All this wear & tear will start to lower your horsepower, so don't forget to add parts to keep your power near the P2P listed above. Or don't get an oil change on a car that needs one...this way your power won't change throughout the series.
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DEUTCHE TOURENWAGEN CHALLENGE

Also known irl as the German Touring Car Challenge (GTCC) or DTM. These are an intense set of 3-lap sprints unlike the mini-enduros found in the GTWC. No tire wear here, and none of the Ai winds up shining over the rest...these Opels and Benzes are all similarly powered so the entire series winds up feeling kinda like GT2's GT300, but with German cars instead of Japanese, and with better graphics.

The first couple races are deceptively easy; by the time you're at Laguna Seca and Route 246 the drivers are more agro, and if you're not careful, they'll even up the points war. IF YOU RACE A MERCEDES OR OPEL FROM THIS SERIES, you shouldn't need to modify your power at all...just get an oil change.

• Try starting these on slick tires {T3} in the first race, progressing up towards medium-softs {T6} at Japan's Route 246 if you need to. Your 4WD and MR cars should usually be on lesser tires since they get a better launch when the race starts, but in front-drive and front-engine / rear-drives, your qualifying time will guarantee a close race if you qualify within a half second of the AI.

Welcome Fast & Furious fans. Ah...now we're into the REAL meat of GT3! This series is comprised of 3 sprint races, each one is 5 laps, and TIRE WEAR has become a factor along with power and car setup. This changes everything. No longer can the cheaters amongst us shoe their machines with racing soft tires...trust me, you won't get far.

• What you'll need here are Medium Slick tires {T6} at best, and a semi-racing suspension. Still, i was pretty suprised to see how little power is needed to win these. If the FTO doesn't show up, you can safely drop 20 hp, run on sports tires, and still grille the ai.
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FR Challenge

The white RX-7 rules here with Honda's S2000 a close second. Again, watch those tires. A combo of {T4} medium slicks front and {T5} mediums rear is great for some cars because it'll guarantee even tire wear in these 5-lap sprints. In many cars that, put some T3's up front at Route 246; this track is deceptively full of understeer moments.

• Recommended: semi-racing suspension, brake controller, and (for some cars) full-modifyable differential. The P2Ps above will allow a sporty race with light drifting possible. Add +.15 to your final pound to power ratios for a tighter, more intense experience.
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MR Challenge

If you haven't been developing a mid-engine car thru the course of GT3, you'll now have to do so and it won't be cheap. You won't be able to just take a bargain-budget MR2 and lightly mod it; chances are you'll need an NSX, Lotus, or something in that league. A fully-powered MR-S will barely win if you're REALLY good.

• You'll need the following parts: brake controller, full-limited slip, semi-racing suspension, medium slick tires + whatever power and weight reductions.

At first, this seems like the most challenging drivetrain race, but the AI pit crews makes one really big mistake: apparently all the sim cars are running on too-soft tires...they all need to make pit stops! Ha ha!! Only the Tommykaira ZZ-S won't have to pit, making it more dangerous than the stronger-horsepower Lotuses that lead the race.

If you qualify up to a second faster than the others, ignore. The Ai will still give you a tough time in the race, so don't change your power unless you top 1.5 seconds; but use about 10 to 15 hp less at Super Speedway.

• Semi racing suspension, T5 slick, or T6 medium slick tires are good buys here. I often recommend Sports or stock tires for Super Speedway...but you'll need T4 or 5's in these races at the Speedway. Again, ignore speedy qualifying.
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STARS & STRIPES

I was a little disappointed with these, which seem only slightly more challenging than the Beginner League races. The only thing of merit (from a newb's standpoint) is that all 4 races are run on the same tracks found in the Beginner's League, which makes them consistent. Still, i was looknig for something a little more close-knit like the sloppy GT2 Muscle Car races, in which the cars are more evenly matched.

In GT3, you'll be racing against one other car, usually the Cobra, Viper, or 'vette Z06...the others evenually fall behind. At least they drive better than they did in GT2, but it's dull just knowing you're only up against one driver. If the Cobra doesn't show up either Seattle track, try dropping 20 hp or more.

• Like the American Championship, it's a toss-up where to start with tires. Generally at Super Speedway, any car except a PT Cruiser will be on stock tires. In other races some cars will need a Sports Suspension and perhaps sports tires as well. At Laguna and Seattle II, you'll need Medium {T5} or medium soft {T6} tires and Semi-Racing Suspension unless the competition is weak. The rule of thumb is: if you can get a clean qualifying lap and are within a half second of the best, you're using the right tires for the race.

• So far, i've noticed the PT Cruiser is the only one that'll need to be heavy modified, an Integra not so much. At Seattle, you'll probly want Racing Soft tires on a Semi-Racing Suspension for an Integra or a PT. The Acura Integra Type R can do it, but I don't know if its possible to win these the PT, tho...i tried and gave up.
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BOXER SPIRIT: The feel of the horizontally-opposed engine.

Unlike the Amateur League Evolution races, i found the Boxer races to be a cakewalk, which makes me think Polyphony originally meant them to be in the Beginner's League but somebody goofed. The AI does ridiculously stupid stunts like slamming a wall at Deep Forest in turn 4, and getting bunched up in the Seattle chicanes. If you drive a Legacy, you will have the most challenge, but you will still win with light tuning and credits to spare.

• Use Sports Suspension on an Impreza and add a close-ratio transmission and Stage 1 Weight Redux to a Legacy. Finally, add a Sports Muffler to the Legacy at Midfield...you shouldn't need any other mods than these. Don't bother to qualify in your Impreza, otherwise your race will wind up being less exciting than watching Larry King interview a shoe.

Oh, have fun touching up on your drifting skills. :)
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80'S SPORTS CAR CUP

8.54 (3,250) 380 hp

Did you love the Plasmatics? Movies that featured Molly Ringwald or Micheal J. Fox? How about the Cosby kids? Well look no further; the 80's are back!

Uh, and so is the Trueno Sprinter SS. Guess what? It wants revenge for the spankin it took in the Beginner's League. If the SS shows up, you can count on one hell of a duel, if not...drop some horsepower (to be determined).

• Use T6 or T7 tires and Semi-Racing Suspension.
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RACE of NA SPORTS
Apricot Hill:

10.15 (3,450) 340 hp

I really like these! Unlike the NA events in GT2, these races feature an assortment of Euro and Japanese cars...not just a bunch of Type R ricemobiles. The Opel Speedster and famous Lotus Elise 190 rule here with an aluminum fist (sound familiar?), if they don't show up, you still got your S2000 (which will lead at the Speedway) and an Altezza, but these aren't as strong as the Lotus & Opel tag team. All these cars will generally kill in corners and off the starting line but are weaker with top-end speed.

For this reason, use the W2P ratio above, and select whatever tires necessary till qualifying becomes even (till your own car's handling is on par or worse than theirs, in other words). There is too much variety in all the cars that can posibly race here so it's hard to recommend anything more specific.

• Use Semi-Racing Suspension. Try also using Medium-Slicks{T4} at Apricot & Deep Forest, switching to stock or Sports tires at Super Speedway. For a super challenge and killer replay, keep resetting your game till both Lotus and Opel show up.
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RACE of TURBO SPORTS

The Silvia Spec R dominates these but the Legacy and Beetle RSi both get a better launch off the start mark. Usually the Silvia takes the lead eventually, but sometimes Beetle will slay at Grand Valley. Confused?

Your qualifying time should be within a half-second of the leader. Add or remove clutches, flywheels, and/or carbon shaft to fine-tune your close-racing experience.

• Use Semi-Racing Suspension, and a well-tuned car (brake upgrades, drivetrain upgrades, etc.) At the Test Track, you may also need a racing transmission and should be able to maintain about 195 mph down the straights when not drafting. So far i've found that medium soft {T6} or racing soft {T7} tires are good for a medium-weight car but stock tires will do at the Test Track in most cars.

The GTAS features cars from the GT300 and GT500 found in the 2nd game, plus a few new faces. The cars drive better than they did in the Amateur League Gran Turismo World Championship, and all the crews (even the Viper and Corvette crews) have made better decisions with the tires cuz nobody has to pit in these 5 lap race, but it does seem that now the Americans are on Super Slick tires--even after 5 laps they rarely make headway.

I did an experiment here and entered an Oreca Viper, racing without qualifying and without taking test drives. I did this because i knew this series would be a stroll in the park in the OV, and also to save a bit of time. Turns out this was perfect; my Viper had to fight traffic, and caught up to the leading Castrol Supra by lap 4 every time, making the last lap a duel to the death!

I finally lost to the Supra at Seattle. No mistakes, no other cars pushed me or anything--i simply lost. After this, i qualified at Route 11 mostly to avoid the traffic, which bashes you about. Annoying.

Still, something was missing. As i did race #3 at Midfield, i realized: i was racing an Oreca, not my dealer-bought GTS with racing kit. In GT2, you could potentially buy a used Supra, RX-7, or a ‘new’ Corvette for less than $30,000 (or even a Viper), and make a star of them! In GT3, your race car will most likely be a Castrol Supra, Pennzoil Skyline, or the aforementioned Oreca Viper. All of these already have star status; no rags-to-riches tales to be told by them :(

• Full transmission, racing differential, and Medium Sick tires are needed. Although it is possible to win some of these in a car without downforce, it is highly unlikely you'll win them all.**

This is a whole different game than the sluggish TTs in the Beginner's League. Keep your racing lines clean, your qualifying well-timed...bla bla bla.

• Recommended parts: Stage 2 turbo, racing exhaust & intercooler, racing chip, sport tires, single-plate clutch, semi-racing suspension, and one of the differentials (1.5 is fine).
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Race of the Red Emblem

3 energetic sprint races featuring Nissan and Nismo Skylines only. If you wanna go the economical route, just use the GTR S-tune that you win from 80's race. Or is it the NA Tune? I forget. Anyways, this random prize already has a bunch of parts and all the needed power (but not too much). All you'll need to add is a set of medium soft tires and maybe some carbon brake pads.

I'll let y'all know if i do these in a dealer-bought Skyline.
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MERCEDES BENZ: Legend of Silver Arrow

If you're like me, you sold the Benz you had in the Beginner's League. DOH! Again, i used a CLK55, but i'll eventually get these done in a Kompressor, too.

• At Trail Mountain and Rome II, use Stage 1 NA tune, Sports transmission, tires, and muffler. Also use a Semi-Racing suspension and 1.5 differential. Carbon brakes, single-plate clutch, sports flywheel, and carbon shaft recommended but not necessary, especially at Rome, unless you're having trouble qualifying. The Ai at Rome will brake way too early and too much. At Super Speedway, drop everything but the suspension and NA tune.

In a Kompressor, you'll need Stage 2 Turbo, computer, and racing muffler. Sports tires, semi-racing suspension, twin clutch, carbon driveshaft, and one of the flywheels are recommended, too. Sports brake package and brake controller are recommended but not necessary. At the Speedway, qualify on stock tires but race on sports...otherwise the heavier cars will buffet you around and kill your advantage.
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TOYOTA ALTEZZA RACE

Deep Forest: @285 hp-(Alt) @267-(IS200)

SS Rte 11: @306 hp (Alt) @288 (IS200)

Grand Valley: @285 hp (Alt) @261 (IS200)

Route 246: @323 hp (alt) @304 (IS200)

Cøte d'Azur: @286 hp (alt) @239

Even if you lead, a missed braking point or clipped wall will put you back in the action in no time. The sim Altezzas drive hard and will not let up, but as usual they make little mistakes here and there in the corners such as too much throttle too early at Route 11 and Cøte. Their lack of front camber means they'll lose late corner grip and tend to understeer, ramming the nearest wall. Keep your cool in those corners and you'll smoke them like cheddar.

• For these 4 to 7 lap races you will need a laundry list of parts. Semi-Racing Suspension, full brake upgrades (sport brake package and controller), sports exhaust, racing exhaust, computer, Stage 1 and Stage 2 turbos, twin clutch with a sports or semi-racing flywheel (depends on how well you qualify), close gears, full limited-slip, medium tires, and Stage 1 weight reduction.

• In a Lexus IS200, you should substitute a racing transmission for the stock one (sports gearing is only a 5-speed...it works good at Cöte but that's about it). You shouldn't need any weight reductions, either.
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TYPE R MEETING

Here GT3 ups the ante; you'll be against the mighty NSX instead of the usual ricers. In any front-drive car, you'll need your wits to compete against it since it has better acceleration out of corners and is faster off the starting line. The NSX is a sports car--which means it is also more stable, too.

...But you can beat it, even in a Civic. ;) Just like any other AI driver, the NSX is overconfident and makes mistakes. But they'll mostly be small mistakes so get ready to concentrate..you can't space out much. Oddly there is no difference between the pound / power ratios in Civics and Integras for all races. Either car will be similarly equipped. I'll try Accords, eventually, too. Cheaters can use the Type S Zero (won in the MR Challenge...i think) but if you go any other route, prepare to spend some cash:

• Sports Suspension (in an Integra) or Semi-Racing Suspension (anything else), racing brakes, and full-racing transmission with at least a twin clutch and one of the flywheels. That comes first. In the eninge bay you'll need enough power to equal the P2P numbers above. Maybe a Stage 2 NA and/or turbo, racing parts, computer etc. Finally, Medium or Medium soft {T6 or 7} will help in all races except Super Speeway, at which you should be on Sports tires.
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EVOLUTION MEETING

The Evil Evol races were so good, i had to do
them twice! At Ruote 11 & 246, get ahead early. Use whatever engine & aspiration available to get approximately the power above.

• You'll need Sports Tires & Suspension (other than some understeer, Lancers already manuver pretty decent) and probably a Stage 1 Turbo system + whatever muffler upgrade will fit the above chart. You'll want your Lancer to weigh about 2,870 pounds (1,300 kg) so get weight reduction to make this happen if you need to. At Route 11, a full-custom Transmission with Single-Plate Clutch and Semi-Racing flywheel is recommended. If the Evo VII GSR doesn't show up, you can safely drop about 20 hp.
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DREAM CAR CHAMPIONSHIP

Phew, I don't know about you, but I'm glad this one is only 7 races.

Here are all the GT fantasy cars: the LM machines and other cars we'd like to see if they only existed, and they look better than ever. Not only that, but they drive like pros and this means you'll need to keep on them when qualifying. In an underpowered car (or even an equally powered car) they will not be kind to you. And they rarely make mistakes.

But unfortunately (once again) they have issues. Mainly, it seems some pit crews have chosen softer tires for the leaders. I was just dueling head to head against the RX7 LM in my Ford Focus RC...suddenly the fight was over. The RX7 had left the race and entered the pits! What the? Do you really need a pit stop in such a short race? They call this the "Dream Car" Championship, but i only kept dreaming for a more challenging race. Perhaps the Pros will provide.

Like the Gran Turismo World Championship, you should power your car so you can keep up with those that don't lead (the FTO, the Impreza LM, Tommykaira ZZ LM etc) since the faster ones have to pit. The only exception to this is at the Test Track. So far i don't have any w2p measurement because you can't fine-tune a Focus RC so you're drastically underpowered or overpowered.

• But keep those Medium Slick {T4} tires on...nothing stickier than Racing Medium {T6} should be used. And you'll need a full race car...downforce, racing suspension & transmission.


				GRAN TURISMO CAR REVIEWS *GT3 Amateur League*



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