|
Mini Challenge
rating: *
participants:
12
Level: 10
Circuto de Madrid
'98 Mini 1.3i: 111 hp + assorted parts (see below)
'02 MINI One:
122 hp + assorted parts
'02 or '05 MINI Cooper: 120 hp
'02 or
'05 MINI Cooper S: 118 hp
'11 Mini Cooper S: 124
hp
* Weight reductions are not needed. If your Mini has weight reduced, you'll need even
less power than is recommended above, or you can boost your car's weight with ballast.
Less power than what's
posted above can be used, but this will also guarantee some cock-blocking & punting will be required for success.
Description:
Welcome
to the Professional Series. Our first mission? Let's race against some 160-ish horsepower Minis. Lmao. The
caption for this race says something like "it's time to push your Mini to the max". Lol.
In case you don't know--this
means these Minis aren't even tuned, or in the case of the MINI ONE, are barely tuned. I was gonna see if I could make this
race ultra difficult by entering one of my ancient '70 Mini Marcos GTs. This cannot be done, though.
The best car for
us ironically is the '98 1.3i, which can be won from this event. In a 1.3i, better tires and power will be needed (rather
than restricted).
Opponents:
It's not just that their cars are not tuned (or barely
tuned), it's also the fact that the Ai simply cannot drive this course very well. They're way too cautious, release their
throttles when they should be burying them, and never take any risks in those tighter turns.
The Mini Challenge is nothing but a pwn-fest for us.
Parts:
Comfort Soft tires.
Add a 5-speed close-ratio transmission to the MINI One. The Cooper and Cooper S can go stock, though.
Add a Sport suspension, Hard Sports, single-plate clutch, and close-ratio transmission
for the '98 Mini 1.3i. Remove ABS brakes.
Cars used:
Minis. Lots and lots
of Minis.
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Muscle Car Championship
Rating: ***
participants: 12
Level: 11
-CARS with ABS
brakes-
Daytona Road Course (3 Laps)
(2,000) 9.01 - 222 hp
(2,500) 10.00 - 250 hp
(3,500) 11.26 - 311 hp
(4,100) 12.31 - 333 hp
Laguna
Seca (5 Laps)
(2,000) 9.43 - 212 hp
(2,500) 10.42 - 240 hp
(3,500) 11.55 - 303 hp
(4,100) 12.73 - 322 hp
-Cars
without ABS-
Daytona Road Course (3 Laps)
(2,600) 9.88 - 263 hp
(3,500) 10.47 - 334 hp (4,000) 11.70 - 371 hp
Laguna
Seca
(2,600) 9.96 - 261 hp
(3,500) 10.97 - 319 hp (4,000) 11.48 - 348 hp
-TRUCKS-
*The ratios above for CARS/Daytona can be
used with front or rear-drives.
*The Daytona ratios can be used if the best cars (Vipers,
Corvettes, Camaros etc.) start on Pole, especially if your car is a sporting or muscle type, and has
ABS-type brakes. If it has old-fashioned brakes (non-ABS), or is a lesser machine in some way it's sometimes
better to have the fastest cars sit somewhat downfield.
*** If these faster cars are downfield (and the car
being driven is competent), power may need to be docked...a suggested 5 to 10 hp per position,
depending if the car is Historic or not. Some Historic cars with below-average braking won't need power removed.
* The Laguna Seca ratios assume a top-handling rear-drive is being used and the best cars start on Pole position.
Otherwise, start these better cars no higher than 3rd. Keep in mind that some older muscle (Corvettes, the Shelby Mustang,
for example) are on this list, now that their RPMs aren't being maxed.
Add up to 20 hp if you're using a front-drive at
Laguna if some help is needed. The clumsy Ford Taurus, for instance will need this bonus, but the more-nimble Ford
Focus probably won't.
** Laguna Seca: If the grid in front of us is packed with older cars
and/or front-drives, use 20 to 50 hp less. Dock more power for the most capable cars,
and less power for front-drives and others which have natural disadvantages.
NOTE that the very first grid after a game restart features two Mustangs starting pole and 2nd. This is a great
grid for a car which needs an easy race.
Description:
Unlike the Muscle Car
race during the Amateurs (the one at Monza) we are not restricted to cars from 1969 or earlier now. It just has to be
American. There's also a new track for us to possibly practice for now if we haven't done so yet: Daytona's Road Course. Sweet.
The cars we're up against often rate higher than 400 hp, and I initially got all psyched and entered a Camaro
Z28 with 399, only to find it in 1st place by the beginning of Lap 2. So unfortunately, not much power is needed
to succeed here, unless you've entered a Taurus or some other machine which is not "muscle".
Opponents:
Despite
the fact these are supposed to be races for "muscle cars", there are a few which are definitely not muscle: including front-drives
Dodge Neon and Ford Taurus SHO. Apparently, any car from America is considered a muscle car. Surprisingly,
the Neon can actually keep up with us and blow lots of rear-drives away, too!
At Daytona, it's
recommended to put as many non-classic muscle cars and 2-seater sports cars in front of us for the best challenge,
especially if your car can handle itself competently. So this means, try to find grids that feature the 1988
Chevy Camaro or newer up front. We want as many Vipers, 'Vettes, and Camaros from the '90s and 2000s. Challengers.
Prowlers. Mustang SVT Cobras. These grids can be somewhat difficult to locate, but once you find a good one it'll be worth
all the reloads.
Older muscle cars still have their stock gearing, which means they'll simply fall way behind at some point.
To liven Daytona up, it's important to get as much of a challenge as possible.
The opponents here drive way too
cautiously on those banks, braking and releasing their gas-pedals for no obvious reason. But they can also draft one
another, and can team up (a Corvette and a Viper for instance) to get well ahead of the competition. Another cool thing about
the Daytona race is there are times when the Ai starts making mistakes. Getting too hot into the first deadly sets of turns,
smoking their tires, etc. This is the action usually only the B-spec drivers get to experience, of course, so take it for
what it's worth. .
Laguna Seca poses an interesting challenge, as now some
older cars (like the '65 Shelby Mustang GT 350, '67 Mercury Cougar, and '69 Corvette Stingray) can keep up; their
close-ratio 4-speeds now getting better usage. It's recommended to put the best up front at Laguna, and like
I said this can include vehicles from any era. Put one on pole, and then include 3 or 4 others if possible on the front lines.
Starting these cars downfield (or even on 2nd place) can make things too easy for us.
...They're not very
good with passing at this track, but if they haven't got anything to pass, this is best situation for us.
...Again, if your car is not adept at handling and braking at Laguna, search for easier grids if necessary.
Parts
Needed:
Soft Sport tires
Medium sport tires at Laguna Seca for some newer millenium cars
(or 2-seat sports cars from the 90s like Vipers and Corvettes) if "qualifying" around an empty track can be
accomplished quicker than 1:41.000.
Fixed Sport suspension for some cars as needed.
Many modern FRs can go stock, though.
Fixed-adjustable or Full-custom suspension
for older classics, and clumsier front-drives.
Full-custom transmission for some older
classics, especially at Daytona. Gearing can be set anywhere from 160 to 180 mph (257 to 289 km/h). Keep in mind the car's
top speed is not measured at redline, it is measured at the absolute top RPMs available on the tach.
Close-ratio
transmission for some cars with super-tall gears like the Taurus SHO, especially at Laguna Seca.
Drivetrain
parts as needed. Limited-slip device for some, too.
Brake Balancer for some non-racing types.
Cars Used:
'03
Scion xA (2,000 ABS brakes)
'03 Ford Focus ST-170 (2,500, ABS brakes)
'04 DeLorean DMC-12 (2,600, non-ABS brakes)
'97
Chevy Camaro Z28 & '98 Ford Taurus SHO (3,500, ABS brakes)
'87 Buick GNX (3,600) non-ABS brakes)
'05 Chrysler 300C (4,100, ABS brakes) '70 Dodge Challenger R/T (4,000, non-ABS)
Supercar Festival Grids *CLICK HERE*
-----------------------------------------------------
Supercar Festival
rating: ****
participants: 12
Level: 11
--------------------Sports Car Class------------------
Highspeed Ring
(2,000)
5.98 - 334 hp (2,500) 6.56 - 381 hp
(3,000) 7.28 - 412 hp
(3,700) 8.60 - 430 hp
Daytona
Superspeedway
(2,000) 4.80 - 417 hp (2,500) 5.10 - 490 hp
(3,000)
5.69 - 527 hp
(3,700) 6.88 - 538 hp
Nürburgring GP/F
(2,000) 5.15 - 388 hp (2,500)
5.41 - 462 hp
(3,000) 6.16 - 487 hp
(3,700) 7.37 - 502 hp
------------------Tuned
Car Class-------------------
High Speed Ring II
(2,400) 5.66 - 424 hp
(3,000) 5.93 - 506 hp
(3,500) 6.66 - 525 hp
(4,500) 8.11 - 555 hp
Daytona Superspeedway
(2,400) 4.89 - 491 hp
(3,000) 5.30 - 566 hp
(3,500) 6.14 - 570 hp
(4,500) 7.15 - 630 hp
Nürburgring GP/F
(2,400) 5.06 - 474 hp
(3,000) 5.90 - 508 hp
(3,500) 6.11 - 573 hp
(4,500) 7.05 - 638 hp
# There are currently 2 classes above. Sports Car Class involves those which have race-worthy handling from the getgo, and may only
need "tweaks" to successfully compete. Think Audi R8, BMW 3 or 5-series, Corvette C5 or C6. Honda NSX,
Tommykairas, most TVRs. Some Ferraris, Lambos, and the Maserati. Some RUFs. Shelby Series 1. And
then plenty of cars you might not expect, like the 2010 Camaro.
Tuned Car Class
includes "normal" sports cars and muscle, like Mustangs, older Camaros, Dodge Challenger, 3000GTs, STIs, Evos,
Any Audi other than the R8, Chrysler 300, Nissan's older Skylines that aren't GT-Rs, and lesser machines which need
to be tuned more extensively for success. These sorts might not have race-worthy handling while stock, or they might
have blocky aerodynamics which limit their overall speed.
A third class (Supercar) may be created in the future,
as well. These are the top-notch exotics (many of which can be found in the classification lists below).
* High Speed Ring: grid placement can be a gamble here. Generally,
the best from the Sports Car Class can deal with Group 1 cars placed anywhere, even on Pole. Those from the Tuned Car Class
might need to have the grid structured more strategically, with the best cars placed 4th place or less. If
you've got a competent car which handles well, and are faced with a grid of mostly Group 2 up front, try removing
20 to 40 horsepower for closer action.
* Daytona: The above ratios
should be used if the best Ai (Group 1) start on or near Pole position. Up to 100 hp can be docked if
the grid in front of us is packed with mostly Group 2 and 3 machines, although finding such a grid is rare.
**
Those who are having trouble keeping up can try and search grids that have lesser cars on Pole, 2nd, and possibly 3rd position,
so the G1s bottleneck behind these slower cars. Or add more power. That works too.
** At Nürburgring: it's a good idea to put as many Group 2 and 3 autos as possible
in front of us. Try to get 'em on Pole and 2nd place at least. These sort of grids can take awhile to locate, but present
a more even challenge. Having Group 1 start on pole is fine, but add more power (try
50 hp more) than I'm suggesting. Or perhaps a better car. That works too.
Unlike High Speed Ring, power should rarely be removed from grids at Nürburgring. Only if Group 3 cars start on Pole
and 2nd place, and your car is an Uber supercar, perhaps.
Description:
First,
the good news. I've been in the habit of entering cars with more power than the Ai can handle in various GT5 events. So initially I
downplayed the power in my '97 Camaro to 302 hp and found myself finally getting pwned by some AI! ...It's okay.
I don't mind adding.
Each of these is 3 laps and there is some excellent racing to be found. The Supercar Challenge
first appeared in GT4. It was one of those events during which some tracks things felt massively competitive (Mid-field
and High Speed Ring, for instance), and at others (Seoul, New York) we'd merely be playing "catch up" if a particular car
got to the front. PD seems to have played with this a bit, so that GT5's versions feel improved overall.
I'm
finding that many cars can be vying for the lead at High Speed Ring and Daytona...up to 5 or 6 at a time! Timing becomes
crucial. It's too bad these are only 3 laps apiece.
Opponents:
GT5's Supercar Challenge allows
a long, long list of potential cars that can show up as opponents, way more than in GT4, and we have an even longer
list of cars we can use to fight them.
The most obvious "Supercars" tend to dominate. These are some of the the
Ferraris, the Lamborghinis, the Paganis, the RUF Porsches, the Saleens, but (unlike GT4) a lot of these autos happen to be
on the same page. Even the 1,000 horsepower Bugatti Veyron doesn't necessarily win every single time.
There
are some obvious cars (Astons and older models like the Jensen and '69 Corvette) which are going to be losers no matter
what. At High Speed Ring and Nurburgring....sometimes even Daytona, it might help to put these slower cars on or near Pole,
because sometimes one of the better Supercars will get an early lead and there will be no catchin' it.
I've seperated
our opponents into three groups.
Group 1 are the top-notch, the ones who are the fastest of the
fast. These are usually the more exotic types of sports cars, and generally will do well at any track, regardless of whether
they start on Pole or not.
Group 2 are the "grey area" cars. These sometimes do well if
they start on Pole position at HSR and Nurburging, and can also sometimes make it to the front at Daytona, even if they start
at the rear.
Group 3? These are the ones we will not have to worry about competitively. They always
lose, and only matter as faster cars bottleneck behind them.
--If you're doing race after race losing
to G1-packed grids, it might be a good idea to find a grid which is less competitive. Or add even more power than I'm
suggesting--
GROUP 1:
'Audi LeMans Quattro
'02
Cadillac CIEN Concpet
'09 Chevrolet Corvette ZR1
'02 Ferrari Enzo
'92 Jaguar XJ220
any Lamborghini
Countach
'67 Lamborghini Miura P400
'02 Lotus Esprit V8
'94 McLaren F1
Pagani Zondas of all types
911-styled RUFs
(Yellowbird & BTR)
'02 Saleen S7
'00 Tommyykaira ZZII
'01 VW W12 Nardo Concept
GROUP
2:
'08 Alfa Romeo BC Competizione
any AMG Benz SLR McLarens
'04 Audi R8
'09 Bugatti Veyron 16.4
Callaway Corvette C12
any Chevy Corvette from the C5 generation
'94
Cizetta V16T
any Dodge Viper
'08 Ferrari California
'92 Ferrari F40
'06 Ferrari F430 Scudiera (however you spell it)
'09 Ferrari 458 Italia
'76
Ferrari 512BB
'06 Ferrari 599
'06 Ford GT
'08 Lamborghini Gallardo LP560
'09 Lamborghini Murcielago LP 640
'10 Lexus LFA
'08 Maserati Gran Turismo S
'00 Nissan R390 GT1*
'09
Nissan GTR Spec V
'00 RUF RGT
'01 Spyker C8 Laviolette
*Note: the Nissan is actually Group 1 material, but its gearbox is too short for High Speed Ring and Daytona.
This car really destroys at Nurburgring, where its shorter gearbox won't max out of room.
GROUP
3:
any Aston Martins
'69 Chevrolet Corvette Stingray
Chevy Corvettes from the C4 era.
'74 Jensen Interceptor Mk III
'00 TVR Cerbera Speed 12
**If a car has not been
listed above, this could possibly be because I haven't seen it yet. I'm noticing a LOT of models can potentially appear in
the Supercar Festival.
High Speed Ring II:
Overall we have MASSIVE improvements over GT4, which
featured a race at this same track. The Ai had a tendency to slow down waaaay too much as they got onto some of HSR's banks.
Well this nonsense is gone. Prepare for a hell of a good fight now!
GT5's Ai displayed some draft-techniques
during a few races prior to the Supercar Challenge, and still uses these techniques now. So don't assume that if you've got
a lead that the Ai won't try to exploit your draft down HSR's long straights and steeper banks. I've watched my rear-view
mirrors, and sometimes the Ai will change posistion left to right, right to left, if we're trying to stop them
from catching our draft.
Daytona Superspeedway:
Things change at Daytona, because here it's all
about speed and drafting, with hopefully zero braking, and cornering limited to how many g-forces can we pack onto those banks
without slamming into a wall. Some of the Group 2 vehicles (especially those with slippery shapes like Vipers, Corvettes,
and AMG Benzes) can wind up on the front lines here, coming up from the back of the pack. You'll notice that some G1s will
now fall behind, as they need to be able to get to 200 mph and beyond to succeed, but their gearboxes limit this.
One of the things the competition tends to do wrong here is they brake into the turns.
It's a small brake-tap they perform, yet this is all we need to sometimes get ahead. We should only be using brakes to try
to keep us out of accidents, or to avoid bad cornering lines.
Nurburgring GP/F:
So this
is yet another track that if you don't know it, it's best to prepare. Here's the first instance of this brand-new (for GT)
track in our game. If you don't have experience here, it's a really good idea to prepare for several hours if necessary. I
did a 25-lap race in a super-slow Audi A2 in Arcade mode, just to learn this track's turns in detail, before trying GP/F
in a faster machine.
Putting as many Group 2 and 3 cars ahead of GP1 is recommended here. Some actual Supercar
types might not need this restriction, though.
GP/F has very few passing zones, which
means Group 1 and some faster Group 2 machines can wind up bottlenecked, giving us an advantage. This is a
very tough track, you might start to witness some of the fastest cars start to screw up their cornering on occasion,
sliding into some sand at the Schumacher S-Curve, for example!
Parts Needed:
Soft Sport tires
Medium Sports can be used if you've got something which is walking through the crowd a little too easily,
especially at High Speed Ring. If your car can do HSR in 1:14.xxx or less while practicing with softs, use mediums for the
actual race. At Nurburgring, if we're making an easy 2:12.xxx around an empty track, the same rule applies, although the actual
race here will often be much tougher, so medium tires here can be a gamble.
Sport suspension: fixed or height-adjustable, depending on car and situation). Some actual
sports and supercars can go stock here!
Full-custom suspension for some muscle cars, classics, and
other poor-handlers, especially at Nurburgring. Try to make sure the car actually handles more firmly after tuning.
Chassis Reinforcements for models which feel "flimsy".
Brake Balancer
It's possible to race classics without ABS at High Speed Ring and Daytona, but we will need
ABS at Nurburgring..no doubt.
Full-custom transmission for some whose gearing is too
short at HSR and Daytona. Boxes should be rated at 230 mph (370 km/h), or more.
Close ratio
or FC transmission at GP/F for some.
Assorted drivetain parts, including limited-slip
differential for some models.
Variable-torque differential for all-wheel drives that can't corner
without lotso understeer.
Cars Used:
-Sports Car Class-
'94 TVR Griffith 500 (2,000) '99 Honda S2000 (2,400)
'74 Lamborghini Countach
LP400 (2,400)
'04 Chevrolet Corvette Z06 (3,100)
'07 BMW M3 coupe (3,700)
-Tuned Car Class-
'99 Subaru Impreza Sportwagon WRX STi Ver. VI (2,400)
'69 Chevrolet Camaro SS (3,000--currently HSR and Daytona)
'88 Toyota Supra 3.0 GT Turbo A (3,000)
'97 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 (3,500)
'95 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 (3,500)
'08 Audi RS6 Avant Quattro (4,500)
------------------------------------------------------------------
Lupo Cup
Rating: **1/2
participants: 12
Level: 12
'00 Lupo Cup
Car = 85 hp '03
Lupo Cup Car = 90 hp
'01 VW Lupo GTI = 88 hp
'02 VW Lupo 1.4
= 90 hp
* Weight reductions are not used for this event. If you've entered
a car with reduced weight, you'll need even less power than being suggested.
* Even though it is 42 kg lighter,
the VW Lupo 1.4 requires a little more power than the GTI because it has a less efficient 5-speed gearbox. The GTI, on the
other hand, has a 6-speed.
Description:
Okay, the Lupo Cup race is rated at Level
12? That does not compute. But let's not judge before the first lug nut is twisted, perhaps this race will be something
of merit. After all, it's held at Nurburgring Nordschleife.
Since the cars we're up against rate with lowish power,
perhaps PD is giving this a "Level 12" simply because of the track, not the competition at the track. Honestly, the
toughest thing about this race is finding an actual Lupo. As usual, it can take awhile before one shows up, and these cars
are NOT Premium, which means we'll need to stalk that used car lot like a detective.
Our enemy is driving Lupo
"Cup Cars"; actual racing machines, in other words. But we don't need to spend extra money on a Cup Car, a regular Lupo
will do. A Cup Car does get awarded as a prize after winning an earlier set of races.
Opponents:
Uh
oh. Rated at around 133 hp, the question gets raised: did PD even bother to tune these babies? I'm thinking "not". The Lupo
Cup is packed with race cars, but do not be fooled by their racing livery, these guys seem to have made it thru the
AMG Driving School with barely a passing grade. Check it out...I'm actually using the power restrictor
to get a fairer race here! Even an oil change can be overkill.
It's not that they're low-powered, it's also the
fact that these Cup Cars drive conservatively; using brakes at Flugplatz, for instance. As usual, they've got TCS equipped.
We can hear this by the way their engines start sounding down on power every time they're in a turn.
First
time I did this race in a 113 horsepower Lupo, I was ahead of the entire pack by Schwedenkreuz, which is roughly less than
1/3rd of the entire track! Even down straight sections, a simple draft can sometimes get us easily ahead of these guys.
We'll be out-cornering them, but with the power restrictions recommended above, chances are they'll eventually wind up catching
back to us, especially during uphill sections.
Thank goodness for this racing guide.
Parts:
Soft
Comfort tires
If you use the Lupo Cup Car, minimize downforce. And obviously, use that power limiter, too.
------------------------------------------------------------------
Japanese 80's Festival
Rating: ***
Opponents: 12
Level: 12
Autumn
Ring
(1,300) 18.30 - 71 hp (1,800)
24.32 - 74 hp
(2,000) 24.61 - 81 hp
(3,000) 28.84 - 104 hp
Deep Forest II
(1,300)
16.05 - 81 hp (1,800) 20.45 - 88 hp
(2,000) 21.50 -
93 hp
(3,000) 26.54 - 113 hp
The above ratios should work with either front
or rear-drives. 10 less hosepower can be used for grids which include a lot of non-sports
car types up front, especially at Autumn Ring.
This is usually the part where I say "push the
best cars that can possibly show up a few positions behind Pole." But depending on what car is entered and how skilled
the driver, it's sometimes best to keep some of them up there!
Description:
These races look as if
they'll be a lot of fun, right? After dealing with the Supercar Challenge, really knuckling down and giving it everything
we had, going back to a "classic" racing event looks as if it'll be just the thing we need to calm those nerves. I don't
know about you, but I can use an easier set of races! But not too easy, right? I do want some challenge.
We've
got two classic Gran Turismo tracks to battle at, 5 laps per race, and we finally get to pore through that collection
of Reagan/Thatcher era of automobiles that has been sitting in our garages, waiting for their turns at glory.
And then
reality sets in....
Opposition:
In most cases, our opposition seems balanced. Typical sports
car types (RX-7s, MR2s, Silvias, etc.) get a slight edge over non-sports cars (Celicas, EX Canopies, Lancers, etc.). Despite
this, the sports cars will not always dominate. This is the good news. I've seen the heavy front-drive Honda Accord Coupe
outrun an RX-7, for instance. Only the Mazda MX-5 will occasionally jackrabbit at Deep Forest,
getting many car-lengths ahead of everyone else, but this also assumes it starts somewhere near the front. Another go-getter
is the Toyota MR2. Keep MR2s and MX-5s away from Pole if you want a closer race overall, or put 'em up there
if you want more challenge.
Looking at the "Typical Opponents" list in-game, the first thing that's
obvious is they've got lots more power now, in comparison to the Japanese Classic races from the Beginner's league. The
top car in those races (the Dome Zero) only had about 140 horses. In the '80s Festival, we're now seeing Skylines, Supras,
and a few others pushing 200 or more.
I entered my '83 Corolla, gave it an oil change (125 hp) and stopped there.
STOP! I figured this would be enough to compete. Turns out, it's actually too much. A lot of cars will
need their power limited, unless a search is done for something which won't dominate too easily. No Skylines, for instance.
Autumn Ring
...And then there's the enemy itself. Gone is the passion they often diplayed
during the Japanese Classic races, especially at Autumn Ring. Rarely will we witness any daring passes or cars taking desperate
lines just to gain a position. Good passing zones for us here at Autumn Ring are any of the kink areas (Turns
2 thru 7) and the two hairpins.
Deep Forest:
We start seeing some sparring here and there, and
overall this track can be lots more challenging since the Ai's horsepower is now more involved. There is occasional in-fighting,
cars taking turns a little too hot, and other such behaviors missed at Autumn Ring. I once saw an MR2 actually brake too heavily
into Turn 4 (the end of the backstretch), get squirrely, and it almost lost its balance, despite the ABS it's been
equipped with.
This track is the reversed version of Deep Forest, and this is our first instance of racing
here during A-spec. Although they will most-likely be passing us down straight sections, there are some beautiful passing
zones for us to gain back position(s).
Take Turn 1 at about 88-ish mph for instance (avoiding the traffic, which
is all braking more heavily) and multiple positions can be stolen as we climb the long Deep Forest hillside. The
second hill after Turn 4 (the one that weaves upwards, right to left...left to right) is another great passing area.
Here the enemy starts to get a little too cautious.
Although I have made sure
these 2 races feel challenging, keep in mind that this challenge is completely artificial, and is based on massive horsepower
de-tuning in most cases. It sucks that I'm not able to run my Corolla at full power, or even lightly tuned.
Parts &
Services:
Soft comfort tires
Optional ABS brakes. Not
all cars had ABS back then, so do some research.
Fixed Sport
Suspension for those which can't crank out a win without some help.
Close-ratio gearing for
those that have gearing that is way too tall.
Full-custom gearing for those that have stock or close
gears that wind up being too short.
Single-plate clutch + lighter flywheel
for Keis and other natural weaklings. FRs can add carbon driveshaft, too.
Engine Limiter
(!)
Cars Used:
'89 Mitsubishi Minica Dangan ZZ (1,300 pounds) '83 Honda CR-X Sports 1.5i (1,800 pounds)
'83 Toyota Corolla GT-Apex (2,100 pounds)
'88 Honda
Accord Coupe (2,700 pounds) '89 Toyota Corona EXIV (3,000 pounds)
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Lamborghini Exclusive
Rating: ***
participants: 12
Level: 13
Rome Circuit
'74
Countach LP 400: 449 hp
'88 Countach 25th Ann. Edition: 470 hp
'08 Gallardo
LP 560-4: 500 hp
'11 Aventador LP 700-4: 515 hp
The above cars have not had weight reduced. Some extra power may be needed if the Miura or '74 Countach starts
on Pole. But if they start on 2nd (or any other position), the power above should be okay. For those
who don't own a Lamborghini at all, and don't really care which model you choose, the best choice for you will be the
Gallardo. Gallardos can be used not only in the Lamborghini Exclusive, but also in the B-spec version of this race. Later
during the Expert Series, the Gallardo can be chosen again during the Gallardo Trophy: A-spec and B-spec versions.
Description
At
some point, I happened to wind up with a Lamborghini Aventador, which possesses 669 horsepower. I was feeling lazy, and did
not want to hunt down anything with less power (like a Miura) at the time. I assumed the Aventador would walk over the crowd.
Yes, it certainly can, with all of that power, but that doesn't mean this single-manufacturer race will be necessarily
easy. My first 3 tries resulted in losses, despite all that power. Why? Mostly because I wasn't used to driving this car,
and it had been awhile since I had driven at Rome Circuit, too. I have also recently driven an '88 Countach. This car needed
some power and tuning to survive.
Bottom line: a bit of minimal practice is all it'll take to succeed
here. This race isn't all that tough, but neither is it the cakewalk I assumed it would be.
Opponents
...It
also was a slap of reality to find the Lambos in this race like to drive VERY FAST. They also drive well: besides an occasional
wall-tap out of the fast downhill chicane (Turn 6, I believe), I have yet to see them make any major mistakes. Edit: actually
I have seen some of them make mistakes! There are some drivers who get a little too eager, sideswipe walls after not braking
enough. But these moments are uncommon.
The super-lightweight Miura P400 and '74 Countach are
the only ones (so far) that I've seen jump ahead of the others, to the point that they're impossible to catch without
some extra power, but this only happens if they start on Pole position. Unfortunately, many grids feature one of these
two on Pole.
Parts Needed
Soft Sport Tires for historics,
such as the Countach, maybe the Miura as well. Hard Sport tires for the Aventador, Gallardo,
and Murcielago LP. These can go stock, otherwise. Stock tranny, stock suspension, etc.
Close-ratio gearing
for some.
Limited-slip tuning for most older models
Brake Balancer, or you
can turn this off for extra challenge. ABS brakes for everyone. I have tried not using ABS on
older cars, and I believe it is possible to do this race without them, but I'm not that skilled yet.
------------------------------------------------------------------
British Lightweights
rating: ****
Participants:
12
Level: 13
London
(1,000) 7.75 --- 129 hp
(1,500)
10.71 - 140 hp
(2,000) 12.99 - 154 hp
(2,500) 13.58 - 184 hp Top Gear Test Track
(1,000) 10.10--- 99 hp
(1,500)
11.81 - 127 hp
(2,000) 13.60 - 147 hp
(2,500)
15.25 - 164 hp
British Lightweights originally contained a Sports Car and Tuned Car class, but I have
discovered these can be collapsed into one class. Doesn't matter if a car is front-drive or rear-drive, each drivetrain
have their own issues at this twisty track. Main difference is what position any of the Lotus Elises begin on
the grid, especially at London: 3rd or 4th.
If one of these begins 4th at
London or 2nd at Top Gear Test Track, use the ratios above. If an Elise begins 3rd at London or on pole at TGTT, add 50 horsepower (maybe more).
It can take over a half-dozen grids to find the proper 4th-place grid for London, so be patient.
Description
British cars weighing less than 1,200 kg (2,644 pounds) are apparently considered
"lightweights", which gives us a huge window of possibilities to consider. I think the GT4 version of this series had
a much lower bar than 1,200 kg.
I've been complaining here and there about how some of the "Pro Series" racing is
ridiculously easy, more like Beginner's League stuff. Well, not the British Lightweights. The race at London is sublimely
tricky, unless you 'fix' the grid by putting the best opponents back a few positions. If this is not done, the leading cars
can get multiple seconds ahead...anywhere from 6 to 9 seconds. If we had 5 laps to catch them this would be okay, but with
just 3 laps .... things can get frustrating. I would say that the race at London is the least fun, out of all the
events we've been to so far throughout the entire game.
But we also have a new track to race at: the Top
Gear Test Track. I have never driven here except for during the Special Condition events. Well, there is thankfully no
chance of "failing" this race like there was when we were driving those silly VW buses, but practice still becomes very pertinent
for survival. Unlike the London race, the Top Gear one can be much more enjoyable, and yet is still a challenge.
Opponents
Be
forewarned: The cars in this series drive very fast, but sometimes can be very sloppy, too. They zip through certain turns
at both tracks; watching a replay is like being in a Jason Bourne movie.
But I have noticed they sometimes have trouble
with corners (big surprise, eh?), especially the tighter ones. The mid-engine Lotuses and MGFs often lose time as they
sway-oversteer at both tracks in and out of tighter areas. They sometimes tap or smack walls at London, to
the point that they can come to a standstill!
There is one grid that (I swear) seems to have a scripted car:
one of the Elises will wipe out and then fully spin, pointing towards the wall. Learn to predict when and where this
is about to happen, and instant positions can be gained if an unorthodox cornering line is used. Oddly, none
of the Ai will hit this crapped-out Elise; it's as if they all know what is about to happen.
I
was dreading the drive at the Top Gear Test Track, but as it turns out this can be a very fun race. Multiple positions
can be gained early in the race (during the first 7 turns) as the Ai gets into their usual traffic jams.
The
mid-engine Elises tend to brake too late into certain areas, and wind up taking turns too hot. Then they slide, sometimes
uncontrollably. It is not uncommon to see them wind up in a full spin during The Follow Through (<-this is where the track
merges in the middle). The Ai also has a habit of slowing way down into the 2nd to final turn (the short straight area
known as Gambon). This is a great place to plan a pass, all we gotta do is trail-brake carefully, and then choose the
right line, while the Ai tends to get confused and struggles here.
We also don't have to worry about
knocking over the wrong cone, or driving too far 'out of bounds', now that the race is on. Driving onto grass is okay, and
we can also drive over any painted line we wish. There are some 'invisible walls', though, and it's hard to tell where they
lie, of course. The best defense is to just stay out of the grass, although this is sometimes impossible.
Lotus
Elises are the ones to watch for; they can trump TVRs, MGFs, and any others not listed. Lotus Europas also are dangerous,
but only if they start on Pole. At London, start Elises no higher than 3rd (assuming non-historics start in 1st and
2nd place).
Parts
Hard Sport tires
No ABS. Many of the cars in this series (even TVRs and Lotuses) do not have ABS in real-life.
Do some research online to figure out if your car would or would not have had ABS braking.
Another option would be to use ABS brakes, but equip your car with comfort soft tires.
The opponents are all on these cheap tires, and are all using ABS. Your choice.
Chassis Refresh Service for historics, even if their mileage isn't super-high
yet.
Height-adjustable sport suspension for historics and front-drives. All others can go stock
or with a Fixed sport suspension
Close-ratio gears for many. Most cars won't need fully-adjustable
transmission.
Drivetrain parts as needed. Many will most likely need limited-slip devices, especially
without ABS braking. I find that 15-25-25 (or close to this) works well for mid-engine cars. Front-engine, rear-drive cars might
need less Initial gearing, but more Acceleration. The Lotus Europa will need something much more drastic than anybody else,
I came up with 30-60-45.
Cars used
'70 Mini Marcos GT (1,200, Front-drive/Historic)
'74
Triumph Spitfire (1,800, Historic)
'99 Vauxhall Tigra S (2,500, Front-drive)
'02 Caterham Seven Fireblade (1,000, Sports Class) -- ballast added
'64
Ginetta G4 (1,000 Sports Car) .
'00 Lotus Elise (1,500, Sports Class)
'00 Lotus Elise (2,000, Sports) -- ballast added '87 Lotus Esprit Turbo (2,500, Sports
Car)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
La
Festa Cavallino
rating: **
Participants:
12
Level: 14
'92 Ferrari F40:
473 hp '06 Ferrari F430:
492 hp
'76 Ferrari 512 BB: 500 hp
'09
Ferrari California: 550 hp
All cars above have not had weight reductions, or ballast added. Reducing weight will probably mean less power
should be used.
Let's talk about that Ferrari Enzo. Have a look at the Ferraris in the Supercar Festival charts above.
Of all the Top Exotic machines (Group 1) the Enzo should be started no higher than 3rd place, and I try to start
them back even further than this, if possible. The only exception to this is if I'm entering a car that actually IS
one of these Gp1 autos.
Description
I am pretty sure all the Ferraris of GT5 can be bought
from the Premium car lot, which means going to the used car lot looking for that perfect deal is a waste of time.
Yeah, I've done this. The Cavalino race only gets 2 stars because it's a little too predictable, and only features
one race at one track. But it is still fun, and hey, we're finally racing some Ferraris in Gran Turismo.
One
tip: When drafting a group of cars down the main straight area (where the Start/Finish line is) you may need to start
braking before the 200M into the first chicane, depending which car you're driving. I've been using the very
last service exit (with the guardrail painted orange) on the left as a braking point. 200M turned out to be too late when
I drove my 512BB.
Opponents
It seems some of the weaker cars in this race have been tuned, an effort
to keep up with the very top models (F40, 599, Enzo, and F430), but it's these top models that will still dominate. They
are virtual race-cars made for street use, after all. And to further narrow this field down, it's the ENZO who will be most
dominant of all. Try and start these suckers as far down on the grid as you can. If you manage to get a lead and get many
car-lengths ahead of the group, it's going to be the Enzo Ferrari that'll wind up in your mirrors, and since this race uses
a 'repeater'-style grid, there are no races without Enzos.
One of my favorite grids features an Enzo starting just in front of us, but an F40 on Pole. It's possible
to catch up to the F40 during Lap 1 or 2, get a nice draft from it, pass it, and now we've got a solid lead while the Enzo
might still be stuck behind traffic.
We can study the Supercar Festival Group 1 and 2 lists to figure
out which Ferraris are top, and which are secondary, and then stack the grid, if that's what's preferred.
Parts
Soft
Sport Tires
Suspension: I have found that suspension work is only needed for older Gp2s so far, and tuning
does not need to be too extensive. Even the oldest Ferrari (the 512 BB) available to us already corners with precision.
A Height-adjustable Sport Suspension is recommended for the 512, while others can go with fixed or factory parts.
Close-ratio
transmission if needed.
Limited-slip for some, especially super-swivelly types.
Assorted
drivetrain parts, as needed.
ABS brakes, balancer is not needed for newer Prancing Horses, though
it really helps the 512 BB.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
GT World Champion Grids *CLICK Here*
Gran Turismo World Champion
rating: ***1/2
Participants: 12 Level: 14
Welcome
to the GTWC. There are two classes going to be used for this set of races. Sports cars are generally 2-seater or
2+2 types with exceptional handling and sleek aerodynamics, while the Tuners are generally boxier 2+2 coupes, sedans,
and all the other body types. Nothing is set in stone though. There may be that oddball which falls in one class, when
it seems as though it should fall under another. Sports Cars Circuit de Sarthe, 2009 (2 laps)
(2,000)
4.58 - 437 hp (2,500) 5.16 - 484 hp (3,000) 5.65 - 531 hp (3,500)
6.27 - 558 hp
Nurburgring Nordschliefe (1 lap)
(2,000) 5.15 - 388 hp (2,500)
5.59 - 447 hp (3,000) 6.04 - 497 hp (3,500) 6.93 - 505 hp
Circuito
de Madrid
(2,000) 5.84 - 343 hp
(2,500) 6.25 - 400 hp (3,000)
6.52 - 460 hp (3,500) 7.36 - 475 hp
Cape Ring
(2,000) 5.76 -
348 hp (2,500) 6.31 - 396 hp (3,000) 6.59 - 455 hp (3,500)
7.43 - 471 hp
Grand Valley Speedway
(2,000) 5.64 - 354 hp (2,500)
6.31 - 396 hp (3,000) 6.74 - 445 hp (3,500) 7.57 - 462 hp Top sports cars with mandatory downforce (like the Nissan R390 GT1 road car) and those with front downforce
up to 35 should have extra power deducted at Madrid, Cape ring and Grand Valley. I like removing one HP per one point
of front downforce, so if the front-end has aerodynamics of 35, remove 35 hp. Tuners
Circuit
de Sarthe, 2009 (2 laps)
(2,400) 4.80 - 500 hp (2,700)
5.17 - 522 HP (3,000) 5.38 - 557 hp (3,500) 6.09 - 575 hp (4,500)
6.33 - 710 hp
Nurburgring Nordschliefe (1 lap)
(2,400) 5.04 - 476 hp (2,700) 5.57 - 485 hp (3,000)
5.58 - 538 hp (3,500) 6.24 - 561 hp (4,500) 6.67 - 675 hp
Circuito de Madrid
(2,400) 5.52 -
435 hp (2,700) 6.07 - 445 hp (3,000) 6.13 - 489 hp (3,500)
6.68 - 524 hp (4,500) 7.39 - 614 hp
Cape
Ring
(2,400) 5.71 - 420 hp (2,700) 6.32
- 427 hp (3,000) 6.39 - 469 hp (3,500) 7.14 - 490 hp (4,500) 7.60 - 592 hp
Grand Valley Speedway
(2,400) 5.87 - 409 hp (2,700) 6.43 - 420 hp (3,000)
6.46 - 464 hp (3,500) 6.75 - 518 hp (4,500) 7.35 - 612 hp
Start the Pagani Zonda LM, Jaguar XJ220 LM, Ford GT LM, GT by Citroën, Team
Oreca Dodge Viper GTS, or McLaren F1 GTR no higher than 4th place. If any of these are placed
3rd or higher, add 20 horsepower for each position over 4th. If the Jag starts
on 2nd place for instance +40 is needed. The '70 Chaparral 2J is a jackrabbit. I personally ban it. Some other historic cars ('69
Ford GT40 and '66 Jaguar XJ13 for instance) are safe to include. * 25 hp less can be used for those rare grids which haven't got any alphas mentioned above.
Cars
which have only partial wing kits (rather than front spoiler, fender extentions, etc.) should be given
medium slick tires. Only exception to this is if
the enemy gets pwned too easily at Sarthe with mediums. It happens sometimes. Description
All right, drivers, here's the moment we've been waiting for.
One of the greatest
things about the GTWC is that we can still use heavily-modified passenger models (Standards or Premiums), something we
haven't been able to do since GT2. The GTWC of GT4, for instance, would require an Oreca Viper; an ordinary GTS from the dealership
simply would not do. But in GT5, PD has gone back to their original formula, which adds to the fun. Though racing actual
race cars is more immersive, there are times I'd rather race something I've bought, tuned, and virtually built myself. For
those who wish to race actual racing cars, this can be an option too. Less power will be needed, since race cars have
much better aerodynamics.
Opponents
Here we have the expected Gran
Turimso mishmash of differing race series, classes, and types of cars. A JGTC racer is just as likely to compete with
another JGTC as it is against something from the original Can Am. It may also face a choice from the DTM. Or an
LM fantasy machine. The gang's all still here. FIA/GTs and a member from the D1 drifting events (the Blitz Skyline) also
appears.
The best strategy is to put as many JGTCs, Super GTs, and DTMs up front,
these will compete with one another in relative fairness. All the best cars happen to be LMs, or occasional vintage
ancients from the '60s and '70s. One of these days I'll make a proper list of cars (their horsepowers, their weights,
etc), but for now, this is the list of jackrabbits.
Pagani
Zonda LM
Jaguar XJ220 LM
Ford GT LM GT by Citroën Team
Oreca Dodge Viper GTS McLaren F1 GTR
'70 Chapparal 2J
'69 Ford GT40 MKIV
'66
Jaguar XJ13
The Jag and Ford LMs surprised me. In GT4 these three did not appear in the GTWC, and when
they did show up in Extreme Hall races, they weren't usually tops. I nicknamed the Pagani "The Dominator" during GT4's
Dream Car Championship, though. The GT by Citroën usually only becomes top-notch if it starts somewhere near the front of
the pack. Otherwise, it'll get bottled up behind others, burdened by its extra weight.
The
ancient Jag (the XJ13) and Dodge Viper will only do well if they start towards the front of the grid, but the 2J
and GT40 can wind up competing for 1st place even if starting behind us.
Let
us peruse our list of tracks, now.
Circuit de la Sarthe, also
known as the track where the Le Mans is held. This track (and the 'Ring) are the two that'll be most demanding, but Sarthe
is much tougher than the 1-lapper around Nurburgring. It's not so much the track as the competition: Sarthe is the
only race during which we'll have to worry about excessive punting and skewing during the GTWC. For some reason,
they sometimes get aggressive here.
Practice the hell out of these two tracks; it's very important to know
all the little things: braking zones, how far of a line we can take, where that hidden soft shoulder lies, etc,
Do some Arcade races to get a feel for how the Ai likes to drive this track.
Drafting
becomes extremely pertinent at Le Mans. And I try to limit my cornering only to the areas of the track that are
considered "legal", in effect, I don't scramble all over the grids, cutting a straight line where a chicane resides, etc.,
not intentionally anyways. Sometimes traffic can force us to make some drastic moves, but (so far as ratios go) I have calculated
what's above while trying to corner 'cleanly'.
Do some laps around an empty Sarthe in practice mode if there
is any confusion...they will make it very clear which areas are considered cheating to drive upon. Key areas are
just before Dunlop Chicane, any of the curves and chicanes down the Mulsanne, Indianapolis, Arnage, Porsche Curves and
Ford Chicanes. Oftentimes the areas we're supposed to avoid driving over are painted blue.
The Ai can get aggressive
at this track, as mentioned. As entire groups clod together down the end of the Mulsanne, it's best to drive defensively,
even if it means giving up a position or two. Get thru the final kink at the end of Mulsanne with an out-in-out-in-out
(this tight right takes LOTS of practice to avoid the sand traps, and hopefully there is now somebody to draft.
Nurburgring
Is not as difficult as Sarthe, for those
who know the 'Ring in detail. The main reason is the Ai tones it down a few notches with their agro-level. It still
helps if we know the track well though, which keeps them from jumping all around us as we make mistakes like brake too early,
or navigate high-speed turns wrong. It's important to keep them from knowing this track better than we do,
basically. Practice laps, an arcade race or two (at least 5 laps) even in a lesser car can help. And of course, there's the
AMG Driving School.
Circuito de Madrid. Now we're in Spain.
Keep in mind this so-called "World Championship" has yet to go to America, Japan, or anywhere else on our planet.
Some other Gran Turismos have gone to different continents, at least.
But in GT5, we never officially leave Europe
until the second-to-last race (it is my opinion that Grand Valley is on the Mediterranean, but Cape Ring is in South
Africa, but this is just a bit of pretending on my part). No Laguna Seca? No Fuji?
Madrid
feels much easier than the others, mostly because it has some slower areas where the Ai tends to drive...slower. They haven't
got as much room to stretch their legs on some longer straights, and they can't rely on aerodynamics for these slower turns.
It's a good idea to think "unorthodox racing lines" to get around them as they sometimes brake a little early, and refuse
to put as much power down as they could during this track's chicanes, hairpins, and loops.
Cape Ring
I was guessing Cape Ring would be the easiest of all. First time I tried
this track, I also tried using the same power here that was used at Madrid in my '07 GT-R (524 hp) and wound
up with a 5.497 second lead by the end of the race! But it also depends on who has shown up as competition,
and where they start on the grid. Alphas and rabbits who get slowed by traffic during the first three laps can suddenly be
in our mirrors during the last two.
Good places to pass are in the early curvey
areas, hairpins (take 'em with an out-out-out line while out-braking and the enemy often gets destroyed), and (of course)
the ring itself.
Grand Valley Speedway
Here
we are, the at final gala, and it feels rather anticlimatic. This race at GVS can be even easier than
the one at Cape Ring, though (again) it all depends where those better cars are started. A Pagani starting 5th will become
a real threat, real fast.
But get some practicing at Grand Valley beforehand and the actual race
will feel like a cinch. There are many many places to pass. The Ai has a habit of braking in odd areas we won't need to, and
also not jumping on their throttle as quick as we can. Some examples: turns 4 through 6 (the top-of-hill high-speed areas
into the 2nd hairpin), the tight left before the first tunnel, and also the left coming out of the second tunnel.
The very final right can be taken flat-out in some cars, or with a momentary throttle lift off, while the competition
sometimes uses brakes.
There are several concrete aprons we can use to get more speed in certain
areas of GVS. I have tried to only drive 2 wheels at a time over these aprons rather than 4, whether traffic is present or
not. This is a meaure of fairness, since the A.I. also does not take advantage of these aprons. Parts
Wing/Aero kit (these are the parts from GT
Auto, NOT full racing [RM] kits. Those with kits, or full-racing machines which include enhanced front downforce
should have 1 HP deducted for each notch of front downforce. -20 gets removed for a car with a front spoiler of 20, for
instance.
Hard Racing Tires for those with full aero/wing kits. Some from the Sports Car class
can also use these tires at certain tracks, even with partial kits. Make a judgment call on this one.
Medium
Racing Tires for those Tuners that only accept a partial kit (usually a rear wing, but no spoiler or extensions).
OTOH, some cars (like the Audi R8) have a strong enough front downforce effect that they can use HRTs even though there is
no front kit. Note that the R8 has a fixed setting of '10' up front.
Brake Balancer
Suspension
work as needed. Some may need full-custom parts, while others (like the '07 GT-R I initially raced) can go stock!
Close-ratio
gearing at some tracks.
Full-custom gearing for those that truely need it. Our cars can possibly
cruise just over 200 mph (322 km/h) at Le Mans and Nürburgring.
Twin clutch, lighter flywheels, carbon shaft
(if car has a driveshaft). Limited slip, variable torque device, if needed.
Chassis
reinforcements, especially for flimsier vehicles.
Oil change can be had, but beware.
It is possible some engines can lose drastic amounts of power from race 1 thru 5 as their oil loses viscosity. We cannot
use GT Auto during a season, so make sure your car won't be so down on power at the final events that it can no longer compete.
Engine & chassis rebuilds, if needed.
Cars Used '00 Tommykaira
ZZ-II (2,000 / light weight, Sports Car Class) '98 Nissan R390 GT1 (2,400 / medium weight, Sports Car
Class) '00 RUF RGT (3,000 / medium-heavy, Sports Car Class) '07 Audi R8 4.2 FSI R (3,500
heavyweight, Sports Car Class) '99 Subaru Impreza Sport Wagon WRX STi (2,400 Tuner
Class)
'02 Subaru Impreza WRX STi (2,700 Tuner Class)
'10
Chevrolet Camaro SS (3,000 / med-heavy, Tuner Class)
'00 Ford Mustang SVT Cobra (3,500
/ hvywght , Tuner Class)
'07 Nissan GT-R (3,500 / heavyweight, Tuner Class)
'08 Audi RS 6 Avant (4,500 / super-heavy,
Tuner Class)
NOTES: the Subaru up above wound up getting ratios which seem abnormally
low. This car had medium racing tires during the first race at Sarthe, but after slaughtering the competition here, I switched
to hard tires, and most of the time, the next 4 races seemed too easy. Either I got lucky with my full-custom suspension tuning
(meaning that a height-adjustable will make things challenging again) or the pack of drivers who showed up were all 'cool-headed'.
The Audi RS 6 (super-heavy Tuner) needed medium slick tires ... its weight prevents hards from being sticky enough.
|
