|
Schwarzwald League B
participants: 12
Level: 20
Cape Ring
(2,500) 6.10 -- 410 hp
(3,000) 7.09 -- 423 hp
(3,500) 7.70 -- 454 hp
Nürburgring Nordschleife
(2,500) 5.63 -- 444 hp
(3,000) 6.53 -- 459 hp
(3,500) 7.96 -- 503 hp
The above ratios assume all the best cars show up: 2010 Mercedes-Benz AMG
SLS, '07 Audi R8 4.2, and any BMW. It is possible to find grids which include only one of the very fastest
(the AMG or Audi) if we're getting desperate, although such grids are rare. But
assuming everybody shows up, we can experiment with different grid placements. I've found that starting the Benz in last
place does work though, so far as us getting a possible win.
Some all-wheel drives and rear-engine autos (Porsche-derivatives) should
have -10 hp or more removed Cape Ring, especially.
Wagons and other non-typical sports cars may need extra power +30 hp at the most.
There is one grid which features no 2010 AMG, and no 2007 Audi R8. Only BMWs
dominate, and it starts an Audi RS 4 on pole. use -60 hp for rear-drives, and
-65 for all-wheel drives,
Description:
Ah. Here we are for the final set of B-spec sprint races, before the endurances begin.
You may notice that as we're communicating with our driver, we now have some new options here: Pit,
or cancel Pit. Since the Schwarzwald Liga B does not have too many laps, I can't imagine that any of
us will ever need to use either of these buttons yet, but they may come in handy during some later events. On the other hand,
this is one of the first races in which I've seen any actual tire wear.
Despite being at the helm of the Extreme hall, these two races can be pretty dull if we enter into them
with our very best. I have tried to find that perfect balance between using too much power, or not enough. Too much
= us getting to the front way too early, so now we get to watch our virtual driver do some hot laps all on his own, while
we try to stay awake. Not enough means simply getting trounced by the 2010 AMG, although this car doesn't always dominate
like it did during A-spec, as we're about to find out.
Opponents:
During the A-spec version of this race, most of the time only one car (the 2010 Mercedes-Benz AMG
SLS) was the one to watch for, as it pretty much destroyed everybody else, and the same car still shows up during B-spec.
But this doesn't mean it'll have its same singular chance at dominance.
One of the best things we can do to even things out is to start this car as low as possible, and I believe
the first two grids we dial up at Cape Ring start this car in last place. The problem with Schwarzwald Liga B though,
is that most of the time, this over-jocked playa will bottleneck, and get stuck too far back to make a difference. But there
are those rare times when it manages to break through. If so, there's a chance we won't have enough power to stay ahead, assuming
the Audi R8 (and/or a BMW or two) also is up on the front lines. So it is a bit of a gamble with the power,
especially at Cape Ring.
But the main difference (once again) from A to B-spec, is the way everybody begins to drive more conservatively,
once they've been away from traffic for awhile. It is for this reason that the AMG SLS eventually might get caught
& passed by either the '07 Audi R8 4.2, or one of the BMW M3s or M5, OR it might not even catch up to these slower
cars, especially if they get ahead of the pack early.
Apparently, the B-spec SLS drivers are not as intent on winning this event as the A-spec guys
are; B-speccers are already able to afford a brand-new AMG Benz, and therefore have a pretty good life altogether, win
or no win.
Parts:
Soft Sport Tires
Fixed or height-adjustable sport suspension (super-handlers can go stock)
Brake Balancer (if needed)
Transmission and drivetrain parts can vary wildly. It's rare that a limited-slip will be needed, but clutches
& flywheels can be tried and swapped, depending how weak our car begins its life, or how powerful.
Cars:
'00 RUF 3400S (2,500 pounds / midweight)
'03 BMW CSL (3,000 pounds / mid-heavy)
'00 RUF RGT (3,000 pounds / mid-heavy)
'07 BMW M3 Coupe (3,500 / heavyweight)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Like the Wind
participants: 12
Level: 21
Daytona Road Course
(1,800) 2.26 -- 795 hp (1,900) 2.22 --
855 hp
(2,000) 2.29 -- 875 hp (2,200) 2.44 -- 898 hp
Indianapolis Speedway
(1,800) 2.17 -- 828 hp (1,900) 2.12 --
895 hp
(2,000) 2.20 -- 907 hp (2,200) 2.40 -- 916 hp
Unlike A-spec, any car from either group can be started in any position, at either track.
Description:
Obviously, the thing about this race (unlike the A-spec version) is we're going to need to enter our very
best machine to compete here. Top FIA-style winged cars are what we're aiming for, though there may be some oddballs (like
our very own Suzuki Excuseo) that can also win. Hopefully we didn't sell whatever we used
to win GT All Stars. If we did, that was not a good idea, and now we're in trouble.
10 laps at Daytona, and 18 at Indy. These can be intense to watch, which is how it should be of course.
Tire wear and fuel consumption are ON for these two
races, but neither is long enough for either of these factors to matter.
Opponents:
Again, we have what amounts to a two-class race here: those who are fast enough, and those who
aren't. The faster ones which showed up during GT All Stars (Minolta Toyota, Nissan R92CP, Playstation Audi R8, etc.)
are still going to be in that better class. Here we go:
Group 1
'04 Courage Judd GV5 220 mph
'89 Nissan R89C
209 mph
'92 Nissan R92CP
232 mph (RPM Limit)
'03 Pescarolo Courage C60 213 mph
Pescarolo C60 Hybrid-Judd 230 hp (RPM Limit)
Pescarolo Courage Judd 208
mph
'88 Minolta Toyota 88C-V 233 mph (RPM Limit)
'92 Peugeot 905
202 mph
'xx Sauber Mercedes C9 232 mph (RPM Limit)
Group 2
'08 Audi R8 Playstation Team Oreca 233 mph (RPM Limit)
'99 BMW V12 LMR 228
mph
'04 Gillet Vertigo
196 mph (RPM Limit)
'91 Mazda 787B 221
mph (RPM Limit)
'98 Nissan R390 GT1 218
mph
'98 Suzuki Escudo Dirt Trial Car
194 mph
'70 Toyota 7 194
mph
Daytona Road Course
The main upsetter at this track might be the Suzuki Escudo. This car's transmission is tuned too low down those
straights, but it's got better traction out of Daytona's slower areas, and therefore tends to stay within the Top 5 or so.
Everybody else we've got to worry about are all typical mid-engine / rear-drives, with inverted wings. They drive well
too, so hopefully we haven't fired all our drivers recently, and picked up some Level 3 doofus to take on these events.
Indianapolis Speedway
After seeing everybody's top speed up above, and seeing how many cars can't top 220 mph, obviously we're going
to be competing with only a handful of speed-demons. But the problem they all have (even the fastest of the fast) is
that their speeds are all ultimately limited by whatever top gear PD chose to tune them with. They can never be as fast
as us. So tune your car's transmission somewhere over 250 mph (402 km/h), and you'll never have to worry by a limiter being
any sort of problem, you'll only need to worry about traffic, and how to stay in front of it.
Another problem lots of cars have at Indy is they have a habit of almost making a pass on us, and each other,
and this includes our driver as well. It seems to be a programming issue, computer-wise. They'll get a good draft, start to
make their pass, but then they'll do this quarter bump-draft sort of thing; unable to get by without hitting the car
in front's rear panels.
But they never really give up, or fall too far behind, which keeps things intense, and that's how the Extreme Series
should be, right?
Parts:
Racing Hard tires
Full-custom transmission tuned somewhere just over 250 mph (402 km/h), at either
track.
Cars:
'91 Mazda 787B (1,830 pounds) '89 Minolta Toyota 88C-V
(1,875 pounds)
'05 Pescarolo C60 Hybride-Judd (2,000 pounds) '05 Audi R8 LMP Team PlayStation/Oreca
(2,200 pounds)
*
Even though the Mazda did not weigh 1,800 pounds, it was used to set the lower-end 1,800 class by using mathematics logarithmically
pointed 'downward.'
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
NASCAR Series
participants: 12
Level: 21
Indianapolis: 710 hp
Grand Valley: 840 hp
High Speed Ring: 812 hp
Laguna Seca: 850 hp
Daytona Spdway: 850 hp
If our driver has been
struggling and sucking up 'til the end, go ahead and pile on FULL POWER for the final race at Daytona.
Description:
B-spec drivers are never as good as we are, right? And this makes things easy for me as I write this
guide.
What really begins to make a difference is how we direct our driver in each race. By now this driver,
who has possibly been with us since the Sunday Cup, should be putting down some solid moves, passing others when least expected,
getting those wins for us, and earning us some mad cash.
We must still occasionally get involved though. Not so much at Indianapolis or Daytona, but during the
three circuit tracks: Grand Valley, High Speed Ring, and Laguna Seca. Make sure we're paying attention to how they're driving,
that they're not getting too agro, especially.
It also helps if we saved the settings we used at each track during A-spec. As we move to each one, we
can use these settings to make things quick & convenient.
Opponents:
There is no real difference between all the cars which show up (except possibly settings and driver temperments),
so here is a track-by-track strategy.
Indianapolis Speedway
Early laps can be intense, as everybody's got their transmissions tuned for this track, which means they'll
regularly be passing 200 mph, bump-drafting one another, and so on. But most drivers have a tendency to make one
huge mistake here: they slow down way too much during this track's 4 turns, going from 4th gear to 2nd sometimes, regularly falling
from 200+ mph to as low as 118! Don't be afraid to scream FASTER! at your driver, so turns get taken in
the 140s and 150s. There you go.
Grand Valley
Now comes the hard part. Chances are our driver will be spending over half this track in 1st and 2nd gear,
possibly doing burnouts out of slower areas unless we now them SLOW DOWN! .. But the good news is that other drivers
will also be suffering from over-anxious cornering as well. Keep your driver cool, that's the top rule for this track. And
tune that transmission with some really deep lower gears, but a shorter 3rd and 4th, this way acceleration
is guaranteed down straight areas, but we'll be able to get this car's torque down out of slower areas more safely. Never
will we be needing to get over 200 mph at this track.
If
the same Sprint Cup Racer was used for A-spec, just use the same settings from before. Otherwise, here is a suggestion:
1st: 2.150
2nd: 1.445 3rd:1.110 4th: 0.925
Fnl: 4.015
The Differential is important at Grand
Valley and Laguna Seca, too. I prefer 30-45-30, which helps eliminates some of the "wiggle"
during hairpins and switchbacks.
High Speed Ring
Another intense track, though there isn't nearly as much sliding and other nonsense going on, there is
some here and there. HSR is the first time I've ever seen a B-spec driver understeer at high speed, as well, causing their
front tires to go deep red! Get that transmission tuned for over 200 mph here, as just under 200 becomes a regular thing
down the main straight area. Drivers often have a habit of holding back at HSR for some reason, especially during the final
banked curve. So keep on telling 'em to drop the hammer here.
Laguna Seca
Again with the slower corners. Laguna Seca is similar to Grand Valley, but everybody does drive with a
little more restraint, fortunately. And like Grand Valley, it can take a long time for our driver to make even a single position
forward. Be patient.
Daytona Superspeedway
Yes! Again, it's pertinent to just keep our driver moving as fast as possible, and braking as little
as possible. The difference between Daytona and Indy is there are no lower / slower portions of this track to clamber
over, and nobody tends to slow down. But they do brake a little too much at times. as they're approaching this track's banked
turns.
The dangerous thing about Daytona is that it's possible for an entire pack of cars to get separated from
the leaders, falling behind by large distances. So hopefully we won't be in one of these slower packs. Other than the
odd braking move (when brakes aren't really necessary) everybody rolls along as fast as they can, which means it can be hard
for our driver to separate from the others and make a win. If you've fallen behind in points by now, go ahead and use as much
power as possible here, which should be close to 900 hp.
One final tip: pay attention to how much power you've got here at Daytona. Especially
try to note if power has slipped from Laguna Seca to Daytona. In other words, if you set 850 horses for the previous track,
but now power is less than this, it's because your car's oil has begun to break down. And this is bad, because NASCAR machines
can lose a lot of power in just one race, so give your driver more power if it's needed.
Parts:
Hard Racing Tires
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
European Championship GRIDS *click here*
European Championship
participants: 12
Level: 22
Competing against Class A and B
Rome
(2,000) 7.40 = 270 hp (3,000) 8.98 = 334
hp
(3,500) 9.69 = 361 hp
Deep Forest
(2,000) 7.60 = 263 hp (3,000) 9.29
= 323 hp
(3,500) 10.26 = 341 hp
Autodromo Monza
(2,000) 7.75 = 258 hp (3,000) 9.44
= 317 hp
(3,500) 10.64 = 329 hp
Competing against Class C
Rome
(2,000) 8.40 -- 238 hp
(3,000) 10.16 - 295 hp
(3,500) 11.29 -- 310 hp
Deep Forest
(2,000) 8.51 -- 235 hp
(3,000) 10.49 - 286 hp
(3,500) 11.74 -- 298 hp
Autodromo Monza
(2,000) 7.87 -- 254 hp
(3,000) 9.49 - 316 hp
(3,500) 10.76 - 325 hp
> If a front-drive (or lesser rear-drive) is used against Class A
and/or B, add +10 horsepower or more.
>> The Class
C results above were made solely with front-drives. If a rear or AWD is used (and this car is also one with good handling),
use 10 to 20 hp less for this class. at Rome and Deep
Forest. At Monza, remove 20 to 30.. This rule can also apply when racing
against Class B, for those with super-confident handling.
Note: The ratios up above were made with (as we can see) a group
of weaklings, not some 500 horsepower monsters. However, make sure the car entered at least has some decent handling. See the "Cars Used" section down below to get an idea. Think Citroen
C4, not Citroen C5. Some of these lesser cars won't win here no matter how much power gets thrown at them, so choose wisely.
> Note 2: In some races, the AI will run a close race with each other after the pit stop, in others
they will not. If they do run a close race, you can expect to see them catch up to us during those final laps. If they do
not (and roughly 25% of the time they will not).... your driver will have an easy win, but a boring finish to watch.
There are multiple ways to attack the Euro Challenge, due to the fact that there are three classes
of cars which can show up, and also you'll need to decide if your team will be taking a pit stop. See the Opponents section
below to determine which class(es) of cars have shown up.
I have configured the ratios up above NOT to include a pit stop. More power might be needed if you choose to take one. With this method, cars
will be underdogged with power, and won't be on the front lines until after everybody else has taken their pits. This creates
more tension later on, assuming everything goes right!
Conversely, if your car gets to the front a little too easily, now it's a good time to call this
driver in for a pit stop, just to keep the action non-stop.
Description:
Three individual races here with lots of laps, but the interesting thing is that we're supposed
to choose TWO drivers to participate, not one. So if you're like me, you clicked and clicked on one driver, wondering why
the race grid isn't dialing up. And now we both know why.
Only one of these drivers will get a chance behind the wheel though, with my method. Because I think a
pit stop during a 20 lap or 14 lap race is ridiculous, okay?
Just kidding. It is possible sometimes to use two drivers, just for that extra bit of drama. If so, pay attention
to lap times section by section, by using the B-spec Monitor screen. If the first driver is able to make similar lap times
as the leaders, there's a chance a driver change can be made. It's best to get into those pits early
though. Get the first driver to make a stop at least a lap or two earlier than the top competition. This way, the second driver
will often have a clear track to get those lower lap times right away.
For those who wish to perform a driver change, here's my recommendation.
Rome Circuit: Pit on Lap 9 (the competition usually pulls in laps 10 through
11) Deep Forest: Pit on Lap 8. Some races, the competition takes two
stops here! Monza: .........Pit on Lap 6
Also, make sure that the drivers being chosen are deep into their 20s with leveling. This way, they won't
start screwing up massively later on in the race as fatigue sets in.
There are some top-talent sports cars entered in the Euro Championship (Lotuses and TVRs), but we will not
need to be entering some monster to compete against them. This is a rather sleepy set of events, during which action tends
to come and go, and it's rare to see drivers making any daring feats. They mostly take those corners in a mild fashion. In
a way this is good, since (for instance) we won't see our driver doing anything stupid, like slamming the wall face-first at
Rome, out of the tricky high-speed chicane. On the other hand, a little more excitement might be needed, which is where this
racing guide comes in.
Since there are so many laps, make sure you're not dozing off into the cheese dip as those laps commence.
It seems PD has configured our driver's Strength and Mental
Strength meters to fade fast during these races, which is why we're supposed to enter two drivers. Pay attention
to their meters. As those laps roll on, starting at about Lap 11 (8 at Monza) you may start to notice your driver getting
sloppy with cornering. But this is okay. Their ST and Mental ST meters can go completely dark, and it might seem we'll need
to bring our driver in for a change.
In most cases, we WON'T need to do this, though. By the time the field has been in the pits (new driver, new tires, and
more fuel) the ridiculous thing is what we'll be so far ahead of the pack by this point, it'll seem we've already won. :)
But with the power restrictions up above, the fastest drivers behind us might be catching up. So make sure to tell your leader
to keep up the pace.
Opponents:
We have what amounts to three distinct classes here. They're all listed in the A-spec version of this race, but I've
copy/pasted them here too.
Class A are the very fastest. They can
make their way toward the front of the pack, even if they start at the rear. If there's only one Class A car present, this
guy will often begin to slack off once he gets a lead. So it's advisable to get at least two of them up there (assuming your
car & driver can handle this) so we'll have some better racing to watch.
Another option is to hunt for lesser grids that don't have any Class A, or simply include one Class A in a field which
has some Class B, as well.
CLASS
A
'94 TVR Griffith 500 340 hp 2,336
6.87
'02 TVR Tamora 345 hp 2,336
6.77
'09 Lotus Evora 324 hp
2,931 9.05
'02 Lotus Esprit V8 353 hp 3,041
8.62
'98 Lotus Esprit V8 SE 353 hp 3,041 8.62
Now we have Class B. These folks aren't as fast as Class A, but generally separate themselves from Class
C as laps roll on. Those at the top of the list are better than this than those at the bottom. Oftentimes, slower Class
B will tend to mingle with faster Class C, as pits are taken and traffic catches up to one another.
CLASS B
'87 Lotus Turbo HC ? 2,521
'00 Renault Clio Sport V6 ? ? 3,080
'03 Renault Clio Spt V6 Phs 2 ? ?
?
'09 Audi TTS Coupe
'85 Peugeot 205 Turbo
'03 BMW M3 CSL
'02 Ford Focus RS
'04 Alfa Romeo GT 3.2 V6 ?
? ?
'84 Ford RS200
? ? ?
'02 Audi S3
'91 TVR V8S
296 2,314 7.82
> Note that there is another Ford Focus which can show up (the '06 Focus ST) but it is not nearly as quick as
the RS.
Class C includes any cars not listed above, and it is possible to do races against an entire grid of C cars only. There
is incredible diversity in this class, from the powerful (but heavy) '99 Jaguar XKR Coupe and '98 Mercedes-Benz SL500,
to the nimbler Audi S4 and Renault Megane Sport, to the sporty (but somewhat slow) BMW Z4 and Fiat Coupe
Turbo, to ultimately poor-handling losers like the Vauxhall Vectra 3.2 and Citroen Xantia. That is a small sample of
this class, which happens to include more members than Classes A and B combined, but is slower than them.
Parts:
Medium Sport Tires
Fixed or Height-adjustable sport suspension
Transmission can vary. In most cases, cars can simply go with their factory units at all three tracks, but there are
some which might be better off with close gears, if their gearing is super-tall, or full-custom, if they can't make it down
each track's long straight areas without getting tach-limited.
Single-plate clutch, carbon driveshaft (if applicable) and one of the flywheels. As can be seen, I'm
recommending some weakling cars be used, rather than a RUF or 500 horsepower Benz. Weaker cars may need little bits of
help, for acceleration purposes mostly. Only if you choose to go against Class A might you need to get some more serious power
involved.
CARS USED:
'00 Peugeot 106 S16 (2,000 pounds / Class B) '03 Audi S3 3.2 Quattro
(3,000 pounds / Class B)
'04 BMW M3 (3,500
pounds / Class B)
'01 Volkswagen Lupo GTI (2,000 pounds / Class C)
'05 Citroen C4 Coupe 2.0 VTS (3,000 pounds / Class C)
'07 BMW 135i Coupe (3,500 pounds / Class C)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Deutche Tourenwagen Challenge
participants: 12
Level: 22
Cape Ring
(2,200) 5.35 -- 411 hp
(2,500) 5.88 -- 425
hp (3,000) 6.61 -- 454 hp
Nürburgring GP/D
(2,200) 5.23 -- 420 hp (2,500) 5.81 -- 430 hp (3,000) 6.06 -- 495 hp
Nürburgring Nordschleife
(2,200) 5.35 -- 411 hp (2,500)
5.92 -- 420 hp (3,000) 6.24 -- 481 hp
Description:
During the A-spec version of this race, I yawned a lot as I pwned a lot, since
it's easy to dominate this series, to the point that I was merely driving by rote, for the most part. But I am more
excited for the B-spec version of this race. Tuning is a cinch, for one thing. Since I just did the
A-spec version of the DTC, and saved all my car's settings, it's easy to just use the same settings for my B-spec drivers.
Opponents:
In theory, everybody in these races is supposed to be on the same page, tuning &
power-wise, and for the most part this is true. Though there are a few who are slower than others (like the '91 AMG Mercedes
190E) nobody is violently quicker than anybody else. Meaning there ere also no real jackrabbits to ban or worry about here,
and we won't have to search for tha5 perfect grid.
Ha! Well that was an easy write-up.
Parts:
Hard Racing Tires
Cars Used:
'01 Vauxhall Astra Super Touring (2,200) '01 BMW
M3 GTR
(2,500) '08 Lexus IS F Racing Concept (3,000)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Super GT
participants: 12
Level: 22
JGTC & Super GT Class
All Tracks
(2,400) 5.22 -- 460 hp
(2,500) 5.31 -- 471 hp
(Remove 10 to 60 hp for
most mid-engine entries, or those which pwn too easily. Remove more from those with better aerodynamics)
RM-Modified Tuners, and Touring Cars
Suzuka Circuit (weather change)
(2,400) 4.48 -- 535 hp
Fuji Speedway F
(2,400) 4.44 -- 540 hp
Tokyo Route 246
(2,400) 4.55 -- 527 hp
NASCAR CAMRY
Suzuka: 650 hp
Fuji : 665 hp
Tokyo: 645 hp
Three classes of cars we can bring this time, each with their own set of power brackets. We can
enter something which appears in the Super GT, we can try an older JGTC model, or we can go for something far
outside this box. The "RM Tuners and Touring Cars" class features cars with low aerodynamic parts (below 30,
as low as 15). Super GT and JGTC cars will have better aerodynamics than these, and will therefore require less power.
We can also try a NASCAR Camry here too!
I have tried to calculate power for as much action as possible (what else is
B-spec for, right? Other than watching some action, and earning some extra money?) But I have also considered the
possibility that it really SUCKS to watch your driver lose after spending so much time.
Description:
Now we come to some serious Extreme Series racing, which features only full-racing Japanese machines.
Unlike the A-spec version, it's best to enter an actual racing car, rather than something an everyday commuter might
drive.
Again, we must choose more than one driver, but this time pit stops are not optional. Unlike the
European Championship (which is slower and has less laps, meaning that one driver can still perform, even with fatigue setting
in fully), Super GT will require somebody who manages to still have some Strength and Mental Strength as those laps drone
on.
Now, the important thing about that pit stop is this: yes we'll be making a driver change, but unlike
any previous Gran Turismo endurance race I've ever seen, including races in both GT4 and GT5, Polyphony Digital
has finally gotten smart with pit-stops. We won't be able to just put a few drops in our tank, forgo a tire change,
and run away with seconds spared. We'll need to take those tires, and also make a split-second decision about how much fuel
we're going to need, although the game automatically makes sure you're being given enough to last the duration.
Another tip: if your car is in that dangerous zone between oil changes, and can possibly start to lose
power during the race as oil breaks down, make sure a visit to GT Auto is on your list. Full racing cars can lose a lot
of power as oil breaks down, and in fact I lost a race recently, after the car I entered dropped nearly 50 horses during the
30 laps at Suzuka. This car was fine during the beginning, and even got to first place. But toward the end it got noticeably
slower, unable to keep up with the leaders.
Of course, if oil has already broken down, and engine rebuilds aren't needed, cars can safely be entered,
confident that they won't lose any power at all.
Drivers who get into the lead early can start stretching an early lead. Generally,
they will have already won the race, as long as they are being told to keep their pace up. Pit stops generally occur
between laps 15 and 20.
On the other hand, drivers who struggle
to break out of the rear of the pack, this is okay. Get into those pits early (before Lap 14) before anyone else. Usually,
this will allow the second driver to avoid traffic, getting a couple good hot laps in as you goad this driver to drive fast.
Opponents:
Every car we face belongs in the Super GT, which is Japan's premier GT racing series, and each one weighs
about the same: from 1,100 kilograms to 1,150. Power, however, varies a bit more than this, which
I'm guessing is due to whatever year each vehicle is from. So we'll see some cars show up with more power than others.
Thankfully, this is B-spec. If a 500+ horsepower car shows up in a field of others with less power,
eventually this driver will cool off, once any sort of lead is taken. But since several cars packed closer together tend
to inspire each other, if some cars from behind catch up, the lead driver will start stomping again.
As mentioned, it's a good idea to make a FULL pit-stop (driver, tires, and fuel) and here's why. PD has programmed this
particular set of races so that the fuel guy for our opponents won't just stand there, topping up those tanks
all the way, even if they don't need this much gas. This means the pits that our enemies take won't be as long as a pit-stop during
some full endurance races, which means we can no longer cut multiple seconds from our pit-time, by not taking
as much fuel as they do.
For best results, don't get cute and try to take less fuel than the game suggests, unless you really KNOW you can get
away with less. I lost a second race at Suzuka, after telling my crew that "I wouldn't need 37 liters, how about we cut this
to 27?" No. Do not do this. You will probably lose, as the car will run out of gas a lap or two before the end.
And there's 30 laps for each of these mini-enduros. As per the A-spec version of this race, Honda NSX teams generally still
do best, with Nissan GT-Rs and Z-cars sometimes also on the front lines, and anybody else rarely able to keep up.
Keep these guys off the top 3 spots to make the math work (if your car/driver needs this), to ensure that your driver will
get toward the front and have a shot at winning. If you enter a race, and don't see your driver getting up to the front
lines during the first 10 laps, this might become a problem later on.
Parts:
Hard, Intermediate, or Rain Racing Tires
Aerodynamics with numbers reaching at least into the 30s and 40s. We can try
cars with wings & spoilers lower than this, but this can turn out to be a literal roll of the dice.
Oil change, engine rebuild, and chassis rebuild (if needed, and
this can include a stop to GT Auto between each of these three races).
Cars Used:
'05 Subaru Impreza WRX STI Spec C Type RA [RM] (2,400 pounds)
'11 Kyle Busch #18 Camry
"What a loser. Why would he enter a NASCAR Camry?" some might ask. It's because I like thinking
outside the box. I paid a half-million credits for my Camry, it qualifies since it's Japanese, and I don't feel I've
gotten my ultimte money's worth, now that online racing for GT5 is over. So there. It's also funny to watch a Sprint
Cup car compete against 'real' racing machines.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
American Championship
participants: 12
Level: 22
Indianapolis Speedway
(2,200) 3.89 -- 565 hp
(2,500) 4.24 -- 590 hp
Chevrolet Corvette C5R: 750 hp
NASCAR: 813 hp
Laguna Seca
(2,200) 3.57 -- 615 hp
(2,500) 3.91 -- 638 hp
NASCAR: 830 hp
Any car can be started in any position at Indianapolis, though if you're having trouble,
find a grid with fewer Ford GT LMs. The minimum of LMs seems to be three per grid. Chaparrals and Dodge Vipers can also
be threats but it's the Fords which dominate.
At Laguna Seca, it's better to keep the fastest car (which is the Chaparral 2J) away from Pole.
Start it no higher than 6th here if your car is having probs catching up to it. Another suggestion is to find grids with only
one 2J, not two.
Description:
Got a top American ride? You'd better.
This is an easy set of Extremes to take on. If you've already done the A-spec version of this race, chances
are you can use the same car which won those, give it some extra power, and there you go. We don't have to worry about pit
stops or driver changes, and it doesn't take as much time to finish these two as it does for Super GT or Euro Championship.
Some choices won't be able to compete here, case in point: Chevy Camaro LM. I can pilot this car to victory just
fine, but Bob has all kinds of problems, no matter how much power gets thrown around.
Opponents:
Generally, the same rules apply from A to B-spec. Fords are fastest at Indy, the Dodge Vipers and Chaparral
come next, and nobody else will really matter.
A possible
strategy for those who are having trouble breaking from the front is to goad the driver (keep him at the front of the pack).
When latter laps occur and slower cars are caught, start telling him to PASS PASS PASS. It's important to get around
these laggards first; sometimes the other alphas then start to bottleneck.
At Laguna Seca, now it's the Chaparral 2J which is most dangerous, with its ability to really
suck. (haha, get it?) the road from underneath. This car can get around others easily, while relying on
its extra downforce to keep it stable during all of Seca's slower turns. Even if its driver's meter goes completely blue and
cold, this car will quickly react if we catch up, and within a few turns it can rebuild its lead.
Parts:
Hard Racing Tires
Aerodynamics reaching past 30, especially up front.
Oil Change! These races are long enough that if two are done in a row, oil can start to break down.
Cars Used:
'67 Ford GT40 Mark IV (2,200 pounds)
Ford GT LM Spec II (2,500 pounds)
#99 Aflac Ford Fusion (NASCAR)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Formula GT World Championship participants: 12 Level: 23
Fuji Speedway F (37 laps) 784
horsepower
Indianapolis Road
Course (37 laps) 766 horsepower Côte d'Azur (30 laps) 828 horsepower Nürburgring GP/F (30 laps) 810 horsepower Autodromo Nationale Monza (34 laps, dry track) 760 horsepower Suzuka Circuit (30 laps, dry track) 755 horsepower
The recommendations above assume a 0.0 mile car is used. Such a car will gain power during
the series, breaking its engine in completely by Monaco.
Typically my driver will get ahead of everyone else during those first 10 laps or so, and then gain incredible distance,
leading to a lot of boring laps. Less power can be tried to counteract this. Problem is, if our driver gets caught in
an accident this can really suck! I just saw my 3rd-place driver get into a wreck and fall to 9th place...
NOT fun.
Description: Finally after many years I am writing up FGT, B-spec
version first. This is the series which features fully-winged F1 cars of course, which means I'm going
to need to buy a Formula Gran Turismo. Problem is, this particular game has just over 4.6 million credits, which I believe
is somewhere around what one of these beasts actually costs.
Another issue is the FGT can only be had as a Standard car, an extremely
rare one, of course. So thank the lords for GT5 Garage Editor.
Oh yeah, I'm
cheating. Giving myself one of these monsters for free. Mostly because I want to see my B-spec team add a new weight
class for Nürburgring 4 Hour, but the team's level isn't high enough in that particular game. Haven't got the rest
of my life to accrue all the money, and don't want to blow what I've got.
There are a LOT of laps in these races; Fuji has 37. Fortunately
they go by fast, and the action is nearly nonstop, at least early on. During later laps if our driver gets into the lead the
action usually dies off, unfortunately. Opponents: All opponents are the same, so this section seems rather pointless.
Use
your best driver obviously, someone with plenty of ABC. High-level drivers also have plenty of stamina, and should have about
25% Strength by the end. One of the main risks with using a lesser driver is sometimes our car can get involved in an
accident, leading to a spin; even those with plenty experience are not immune.
Strategy
and Settings: Don't be afraid to tell
drivers to slow down occasionally, especially if they start getting too punt-happy, ramming others
from behind and doing other stupid stuff.
Each race is quite long. There are no driver changes, but at least one
pit stop is required at some tracks. Here are a few suggestions to plan each event for maximum excitement, along with changes
in settings. Keep in mind I have no idea how to tune an FGT, other than transmission settings! Everything else is experiments.
Fuji Speedway F
Gearing 1st: 6.755 2nd: 4.200 3rd:
3.333 4th: 2.550 5th: 2.015 6th: 1.660 7th: 1.400 Final: 3.625
Stops: 1 Suspension: Ride
Height: 0/0 Springs: 15.7/16.2 E. Dampers: 8/4 R. Dampers: 5/7 Anti-Roll Bars:
5/6 Camber: 3.0/1.5 Toe: -0.05/+15
Notes: This opening event will require a much taller Final Drive
than the game's default of 4.212, I am giving my team 3.625, along with a 4.200 2nd
(let's avoid 1st gear except during launch) and 1.400 7th Gear. While all other teams reach a max of
222 mph, my FGT can gain advantage down the main straight. Top speed? Somewhere over 250.
Are real-life F1 teams limited by PD's crappy gearbox nonsense? Come on, Kaz.
To counteract this uberness, my car had its horsepower cut by -80. A pit stop will be required during Fuji. By Lap 30 those rear tires
will be about 20% and fuel will be a sliver. Come in for a stop early, unless your team is in the lead by a huge margin.
----------------------------------------------
Indianapolis
Gearing:
same as at Fuji Stops: 0 Suspension: same as Fuji
Notes: Again, everyone's gearing is too short down the opening
straight into Turn 1, maxing at 222 mph. A lot of passing can occur during this stretch due to taller gears.
A stop can be taken if we get way far in the lead, but they aren't 100% needed.
---------------------------------------------
Côte d'Azur
Gearing: 1st: 6.900, 2nd: 4.300, Final Drive = 4.650 Stops: 0 Suspension:
raise & soften Ride Height: +5mm / +2mm Springs: 13.5/15.0 E. Dampers: 5/3 R. Dampers: 7/6 Anti-Roll Bars: 2/2 Camber:
2.0/2.0 Toe: -0.10/+0.15
LSD: 15/30/15 Brakes: 8/3
Notes: Obviously
we can't rely on getting ahead due to beating their crap gearbox tuning. I went the opposite direction now, shortened that
final drive and 7th, while 2nd is taller than default. The competition hardly shifts into 1st gear (causing awkward
off-power moments), but it's better to be safe.
It's tough for our driver
to make positions at this chaotic short track, at first. Keep them from getting (and staying) too hot, that's the main concern.
Somewhere between laps 12 and 15 though, everyone starts stretching away from each other like a Slinky. Those behind us fall
FAR behind, while those in front sometimes "compress" closer. Again, just like a Slinky.
Sometimes it helps to make
drivers do a "slow 'n' go" if they get stuck, especially as laps roll from the teens into the twenties. Tell them to slow
down until whoever's in front slacks off, then tell them to GO. Sometimes the driver in front gets caught off-guard.
---------------------------------------------
Nürburgring GP/F
Gearing: same as Monaco, but lower the
Final Drive to 4.000. Stops: 0 Suspension: same LSD: 15/30/15 Brakes: 7/4
Notes: By now a 0.0 mile (or km) car should have broken
its engine completely, and power stabilizes. Too bad we can't see what happens if FGTs were to race the full Nord and
Sudschleife!
Schumacher
S-Curves and NGK Schikane (the final super-slow chicane are two dangerous areas. Make sure your driver's occasionally
being told "SLOW DOWN" in these areas. Spectacular spinouts can happen otherwise.
----------------------------------------
Autodromo Nazionale Monza
Gearing: same as Fuji & Indy, more
or less. Stops: 1 Suspension: same as Fuji/Indy LSD: Brakes: 7/4
Notes:
-------------------------------------------------------
Suzuka Circuit
Gearing: same as Monza Stops: 1 Suspension:
Ride Height: -1 mm / -5 mm Springs: 15.7/16.2 E. Dampers: 8/4 R. Dampers: 5/5 Anti-Roll Bars: 5/4 Camber:
3.0/1.5 Toe: +0.10/+0.15
LSD: 15/40/20 Brakes: 4/6
Notes: Oddly, the game plays a trick
and puts everyone on Super Soft Sport tires, a tire type we cannot install without a hybrid program. Even odder, these tires
do not wear out! Six laps in as I type this, and I have yet to see any rubber missing.
Not that it matters. Tire wear is not why they
need to come in for stops, fuel is. Their transmissions (again) top out the RPMs during two straight sections, but not for
long enough that we can gain advantage.
Parts: Hard Racing Tires ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dream Car Championship Grids (Click here)
DREAM CAR CHAMPIONSHIP
participants: 12
Level: 24
0.35 Class
Indianapolis Speedway
(2,000) 2.82 -- 709 hp
(2,400) 3.30 -- 726 hp
Autodromo Nazionale Monza (dry track)
(2,000) 2.89 -- 692 hp
(2,400) 3.37 -- 712 hp
Tokyo Route 246 (10 laps)
(2,000) 2.78 -- 722 hp
(2,400) 3.26 -- 735 hp
Circuit de la Sarthe 2009, Weather
Change (3 laps)
(2,000) 2.85 -- 700 hp
(2,400) 3.35 -- 715 hp
Nürburgring 24H (3 laps)
(2,000) 2.77 -- 721 hp
(2,400) 3.26 -- 734 hp
0.50 Class
Indianapolis Speedway
(2,100) 3.92 -- 535 hp
(2,700) 4.41 -- 612 hp
Autodromo Naziolnale Monza
(2,100) 3.92 -- 535 hp
(2,700) 4.46 -- 605 hp
Tokyo Route 246
(2,100) 4.07 -- 515 hp
(2,700) 4.35 -- 620 hp
Circuit de la Sarthe 2009
(2,100) 4.37 -- 480 hp
(2,700) 4.44 -- 608 hp
Nurburgring 24H
(2,100) 4.29 -- 490 hp
(2,700) 4.39 -- 615 hp
The above ratios assume the '88 Jaguar XJR-9 is kept off the grid entirely.
Seek grids which place at least one of the best top cars (any Ford GT or the Pagani) up front if you've got
a confident-handling car. Otherwise, it's possible for this confident racer to get to the front too early, and get an
automatic win. There are also easier grids that start all these downfield, for cars which aren't as confident.
If it's raining at Monza, some more power might be needed for those which have traction issues. Maybe. Problem is,
too much power can also cause loss of traction!
There are two classes up above: and the green number
in front of "class" represents the highest frontal aerodynamic number. If there is no number up front in a car's Settings
> Body > Aerodynamics section, it's best to simply choose some other car that is suitable. The lowest
recommended number is 35, and cars with this lower number will need more power
than those with higher aerodynamics.
Top racing cars: GT1s, LeMans Prototypes and such, can also be
entered here, if there is no other option in your garage. If the Jaguar XJR-9 is not included, make sure to find the most
challenging grid possible (putting plenty of talent up front), lower aerodynamics to fit either class above, and
after doing the math, cut horsepower like so:
Indianapolis:: -50.
Monza:
-75 (rain) -150 (dry)
Route 246: -185
Sarthe 2009: -185
Nurburgring: -175
Description:
I am particularly psyched about the Dream Car Championship's B-spec version. Action to watch (hopefully),
lots of money to win, and lots of pizza or chips as these are watched. Like other championships, this
race series can either be done individually, or as a full series. Oddly, pit stops will not be needed, and I fully expected
they would be.
Now, the thing that really sucks about the Dream Car Championship is how non-inclusive it
is. There are surprisingly few options, for those of us who want to get creative with car choices. We can enter one of the
better cars in this series (Ford GT race car, Pagani Zonda LM, GT by Citroën, etc.) or we can opt for something less,
and try to tune this loser for better success. For those looking to find something else, something which is
not an official Dream Car, choices are surprisingly slim.
For instance, trying to bring something European to the tarmac, something which isn't an official DCC
automobile, there just isn't much out there. Very few Premium cars can be race-modified, and it's hard finding a Premium
or a Standard which has (1) the proper downforce, and (2) the proper amount of power, and this includes racers
like those which appear in the Deutche Tourenwagen Challenge.
There are a few out there, but since they tend to be in the used car lot, good luck. The loser Lister
Storm V12 is an example, except we can try to make it not so much of a loser, by giving it some extra power!
There's the McLaren/BMW GTR-1, and the Gillet Vertigo (another typical loser), and maybe some possible touring cars or
LMs...
... But eventually it becomes clear that there isn't a huge list of options, since B-spec drivers
aren't as good as we are Whatever gets given to them may or may not work. This problem persists amongst Japanese
and American cars too, although if we go this route, there are some more choices.
Those who just want to use one of the cars which are in the DCC won't have as much of a dilemma, of course.
They can just buy or win an easily-found, easily-affordable Ford GT LM or something such, or enter the
Pagani Zonda R prize car.
Opponents:
First rule (in case it was not obvious up above): keep the '88 Jaguar XJR-9 OUT of these races.
It has 300+ horsepower more than anybody else who shows up. In my opinion, this Jag was supposed to have
been dropped into some other race series (Like the Wind, perhaps) but some goofball at PD hit the wrong button.
Second rule: we won't need our absolute best to take on the Dream Car Championship. We
won't need a Group C Minolta Toyota or a Toyota TS020. Though I've tried to structure some power guidelines for these top
racers, they should be used as a last resort, as they can cheat the others too easily.
Other than that Jaguar (which you just eliminated, right?) there are just a few to watch for...
Ford GT LM Race Car
Ford GT LM Spec II Test Car
Ford GT LM Spec II Race Car
Pagani Zonda LM
GT by Citroën
And that's pretty much all of them.. The game puts at least three of these cars on every grid;
there are no lesser grids to hunt for, so don't bother trying. These top cars tend to run a tight race with one another. They
won't start driving "cold" for instance, slowing down because they're far away from traffic.
There are a few others which can sometimes keep up with the best (the Nissan GT-R Concept and Honda NSX-R
both do well at Monza, for instance, especially if it rains), but we don't have to worry about if, or how many, of these intermediates
show up.
Parts:
Hard Racing Tires
Aerodynamics with numbers reaching at least into the 30s.
Transmission set for over 250 mph (402 km/h) at Indianapolis,
whether this is a default unit, or fully-customized part.
Cars Used:
'04 Gillet Vertigo (2,000 pounds, 0.35 Class. I added weight and removed LOT of power)
Mazda RX-7 LM (2,400 pounds, 0.35 Class)
'97 BMW McLaren F1 GTR (2,100 pounds, 0.50 Class)
'00 Dodge Viper GTS-R (2,700 pounds, 0.50 Class)
|
