GT5 Endurance Series (B-spec)

GT5 Endurance Series (B-spec)

Grand Valley 300 km

(1,500) 6.41 -- 236 hp

(3,500) 10.32 -- 339 hp

(1,500) 10.27 -- 146 hp

(3,000) 11.90 -- 252 hp

(2,300) 9.27 -- 248 hp

(3,200) 10.09 -- 317 hp

Like the A-spec version, there are four classes of cars I've defined for B-spec, but we can only choose to race against one of these classes at best. There is no pure Class 4 race. All classes appear below in the Opponents section. Choose which class you'd like to see B-spec race against, do the math, then find a grid to compete against

Racing in Class 1 or 2 with a front-drive will require extra power, assuming a lesser FF is entered.

Getting an oil change or engine rebuild is optional for this race. See Strategy section below.

"A grueling race that requires total concentration" is the caption for this first enduro. Which makes me chuckle. Multiple drivers can be entered here, whereas during the A-spec version, we often do the entire thing ourselves. If we had the stamina of B-spec drivers, commuting to work would require an immediate nap after we get there.

But note that ALL drivers show up to the GV300 km. As each driver takes a break, and are sitting in the pits, they can be monitored as they regain Strength and Mental Strength. Do this by clicking on the box showing whoever the current driver is.

Now, one interesting thing: A-spec only required one pit stop, and if more than one got taken, that usually meant bad things. But B-spec will be needing an average of three. The weakest link here will not be tires or fuel though, in most cases it will be drivers! Pit stops are needed because those drivers really start to perform poorly as their Strength and Mental Strength wear out.

Fuel & Pitstops -- All kinds of strategy can be employed here, like not taking any fuel at all during that first stop. Fuel-efficient types might not need any until the third stop, matter of fact. If your B-spec driver is far behind the leaders (and it probably will be), it's possible to cut some time just by not taking any fuel, because everyone else will be forced to fill their tanks, even if they don't need to.

During latter laps, other crews will adapt this strategy as well, so that they'll only put a few liters in if they're really needed, just like the crews during Super GT, which is interesting.

On the other hand, if your driver gets way too far ahead of everyone else (and this could happen during the latter part of this race, if the leaders start driving cold) it's possible to equip hard or medium tires to bring back the action.

Oil changes and engine rebuilds -- These are optional, your car won't always need to get these services. Performing either will usually cause an easy boost of power of course, which might be good for getting to the front early. But as oil breaks down, the car's engine will certainly lose power.

Sometimes this can be okay. The latter half of the 300 km can sometimes be rather dull. The leaders end up nowhere near each other, losing inspiration to keep their speed up. In other words, it might be okay if there's a loss of power, since everybody starts driving cold anyway. On the other hand, sometimes two or more cars will group together throughout the entire race. And for this sort of situation, it's better to enter a car with its power already broken down. Makes things more consistent.

Either situation can be a dice-roll. it is hard to predict if the others will drive closely (requiring consistent power) or not (dull boring race to watch if ours gets to the front with miles to spare).

B-spec races can have it all: action which is non-stop, or no action at all, to the point that a watching Barney Miller rerun from 1982 sounds like a great idea. The GV 300km has a bit of both: action, and "what else is on TV?". Sometimes the entire field of cars will stretch away from each other, GT4-style. But then they'll all catch up to one another, and things will be fun to watch again.

The class system from A-spec can still be referred to here, and the same list of grids seen during A-spec is copy/pasted by PD for B-spec. Here is that page again. Scroll down to where it says "I have listed the first 30 grids..." or simply ctrl + F the word "grid".

And here is the list of classes I've come up with. Again, they do reflect some similar results others at GT Planet have also determined. Note that all posted lap times from B-spec drivers will be several seconds slower than those who drove A-spec. I have also posted the very first lap that I observed each car pulling in for a pit stop.

Class 1

Honda NSX Type R '02--------------- 15 2:15.139
Honda NSX Type R '92--------------- ??

Honda NSX '90 --------------- 14 2:17.183

Class 2
Toyota MR2 GT-S '97---------------

'06 Honda S2000 ----------------------- 15     2:15.412
Mazda RX-7 Spirit R Type A-------       14   2:16.465
Impreza Sedan WRX spec C '04-----   14    2:17.506
Nissan Fairlady Z Z34 '08----------
Subaru Impreza WRX STi (18i...) '07 14      2:17.259

* The "18i" Subaru above does not appear on GTSail's lists, but I observed it keeping up with both NSX cars during initial laps, so it should at least go into Class 2.

Class 3
Nissan Skyline GTR R34 '00-------- 16   2:16.911
Mazda RX-8 Type S '07-----------
Mazda RX-7 Type RS '98------------  16 2:17.279
Impreza Sedan WRX STi Vers VI '99 14 2:19.024
Sub Impreza Coupe WRX typeR STi--- 2:18.094
Impreza Coupe 22B-STi '98---------     2:19.421
Fairlady Z Version ST '02----------
Fairlady Z Version S '07-----------
Mits Lancer EVO X GSR PP '07-----
Fairlady Z Version S '02-----------

Subaru Impreza Sedan WRX STI '02 (no time observed...this car does not appear in the GTP lists, but it's probably Class 3).

Class 4
Nissan Silvia spec-R Aero---------     16      2:18.679
Nissan Skyline R33 GTR '95--------- 16     2:21.461
Nissan Skyline Coupe 350GT--------         2:20.689
Mits Lancer EVO IV GSR '96-------           2:19.332
Impreza Sedan WRX '94-----------      16    2:19.658
Nissan 350Z Gran Turismo 4 Ltd '05
Subaru Legacy B4 2.0GT spec.B-----
Fairlady Z 300ZX Ver.S TT 2seater        2:21.850
Toyota Supra RZ '97--------------              2:22.871
Nissan Skyline GTR R32 '89--------16     2:21.474
Mits Lancer EVO IX '05------------              2:19.898
Subaru Legacy B4 2.0GT spec.B '03
Mits Lancer EVO IX GSR '05-------   17 2:20.881
Nissan 300ZX 2seater Z32 '98------
Nissan 300ZX 2by2 Z32 '98-------- 14 2:20.511
Toyota Soarer 430SCV '01--------
GTO Twin Turbo MR '98-----------       2:21.633
Nissan Stagea 25t RS FOUR S '98--
Honda Accord Coupe EX '03-------
Mits GTO Twin Turbo MR '95-------14    2:21.642
Subaru Legacy B4 Blitzen '00 -----  16 2:23.854
Subaru Legacy Touring Wagon------- 16     2:22.119
Toyota Celica GT-FOUR '98---------- 18     2:23.207
Mazdaspeed Atenza '05------------
Infiniti G35 Coupe '06--------------        2:24.274
Nissan Silvia 240RS ----------------14 2:22.289

The lap time each car has listed next to it represents its very fastest observed time around the track. In reality, each car will not be as quick, especially once they're away from traffic.

Proven grids are as follows:

Class 3: Grid #1, Grid #11, Grid #12

Grid 1 has two cars in Class 3, but sometimes the lesser Nissan Silvia Spec R Aero keeps up with these faster cars.

Grid 12 (Class 3) has a Honda S2000, which is Class 2 among three Class 3s. During B-spec this won't matter as much though.

Grid 25 (Class 2) is particularly tough. Its top cars tend to stick together through most of the race.

All of the tips I'm recommending (restricted power, nerfed pit-stops, searching for the right grid) are efforts to make these races as exciting as possible, but sometimes we'll still will up with a race in which our driver gets far into the lead, and then there's no more action. One of the things GT4 did right was it allowed the player to fast-forward B-spec races, and unfortunately this can't be done anymore, once that action starts to waver.

Guess it's time for Barney Miller after all.

Hard, soft, or medium sport tires *(note that the AI always uses softs)

Fixed or height-adjustable sport suspension (some great handlers can go stock)

Full-customized Suspension for those handling disaster autos!

Factory or close-ratio gearing (rarely will a need for full-custom gears be needed)

Single-plate clutch, one of the flywheels + carbon driveshaft (as needed)

Limited-slip for some with tricky traction, especially some front-drives.

'00 Tommykaira ZZ-S (1,500, Class 1)

'03 BMW M3 CSL (3,200, Class 1)

'96 Lotus Elise (1,500, Class 2)

'91 Mazda RX-7 Type R (3,000, Class 2)

'07 Ford Mustang GT Coupe (3,500, Class 2)

'00 Volkswagen Beetle 2.0 (2,300, Class 3)

03 Subaru Legacy Touring Wagon 2.0GT (3,200, Class 3)

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Roadster 4-Hour Endurance

(2,000) 16.13 -- 124 hp

(2,500) 17.75 -- 141 hp

Unlike A-spec, it doesn't matter who starts where for B-spec. NB-generation Roadsters (the ones which have their headlamps showing) are faster than the 'bathtub' NA-style cars, but this race is so long, there's plenty of time to catch up if we seem like we're lagging.

Include as many NBs as possible! This way, challenge is at least guaranteed. The very first grid after starting a PS3 is perfect.

No oil changes or engine rebuilds! …But if your only choice to enter is a car which has recently had maintenance, power should be started about 7 horsepower more than recommended, so it breaks down to recommended during the race.. Problem is, such a car might get into the lead too easily during early laps.

If you start a zero-mileage Premium car in this race, give it 7 horsepower less than recommended. Engine break-in will make up the difference during the event.

11/06/17: both ratios above have been lowered slightly.

Here it is, the first really long B-spec race. Those who passed out on the couch during the '80s Cup, Dream Car Championship, and other such events haven't seen nothing yet.

One of the neat things about the Roadster Endurance is we can include drivers who aren't very skilled. Yes, we should include some of our better drivers in this one, but if we have to add somebody who's not as experienced, this is okay. Just make sure to monitor these guys closer than usual.

For experienced drivers: I have noticed that even after they "tire out" completely, Strength and Mental Strength completely gone, it is rare they'll make any mistakes. At worst, I've seen some cars slip their rears a tad. Trips into the grass and grand spinouts simply never happen, probably because everyone's on soft tires.

The B-spec version of Roadster Endurance is the first race in the game which requires less power than A-spec. Slightly less. And the main reason for this is it's all too easy to load up an MX-5's 1.6 or 1.8 liter with just a little too much, and then next thing we know, our car's in the lead ...

.... with 3 hours, 47 minutes, and 17 seconds to go.

Go ahead and add more power than I'm suggesting if you don't mind a boring, drama-less outing, like Michael Schumacher, or Junior Johnson, winning .... again.

It's the typical B-spec scenario: certain cars break away from the pack during those first 30 laps or so, and usually these will be the NB-style Roadsters. NBs have shorter transmissions than NAs, and are better able to utilize their entire powerband, especially 4th gear during straight sections.

Action is not always guaranteed throughout the entire race, but because Tsukuba is such a small track, those who do get strong leads (and then begin slacking off) should soon eventually wake up again, usually after hitting backmarker traffic.

Usually what'll happen on our end is we won't even see our car in the lead until Lap 50 or so. Our drivers will have to work for their position, basically. Which is more dramatic to watch (imo) than an over-classed 2-seater simply getting up there during the first 4 laps, and then staying up there unless we forget to tell them to "speed up" once in a while.

Strategy

Unlike the Grand Valley and Laguna Seca enduros, the cars in the Roadster 4-Hour will not adopt an "adaptive strategy" for fueling. They always top up their tanks, which is ridiculous because Miatas, MX-5s, Roadsters, and Eunos Roadsters barely sip any gas. Therefore, we can easily shave time by not taking any fuel at all, not until the very last pit stop, perhaps.

On the other hand, if your driver gets too much of a lead and you want to do something about this, lesser tire types can be enforced, as well as a "full tank" policy with every stop except the very last one.

Soft Sport Tires (but show up with a full rack of mediums and hards as well, just in case you want to play "race marshal.")

Fixed Sport Suspension

Close-ratio 5-speed for NA-era cars. NBs can go with factory transmissions.

Single-plate clutch, either flywheel, carbon driveshaft. (We won't be needing a limited-slip though. Nobody ever loses traction during this race ... PD seems to have tamed their B-spec programming.)

No oil change or engine rebuild.

'93 Mazda MX-5 Miata V-Special (2,000 pounds)

'07 Mazda Roadster RS (2,500 pounds)

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Laguna Seca 200 Miles

(1,500) 9.86 -- 152 hp

Tuners & Muscle Cars

(2,500) 8.30 -- 301 hp

(3,000) 9.41 -- 318 hp

(3,500) 10.54 -- 332 hp

Sports Cars = Automobiles which are able to maximize cornering abilities, rather than rely on power. Entrants from this class will often cream the American Muscle which shows up through Andretti Hairpin, Mother's Bridge turn, The Corkscrew, and other daring kinks and curves, but their lack of horses causes them to fall behind while going uphill, and during straights. Cars from this class are also more efficient with fuel, spending less time in the pits.

Tuners and Muscle = Everyone else. They haven't got the stellar pretzel-like cornering abilities as the sports cars. They'll often be cutting their throttle through those tighter turns, but then flooring it when the straight arrive.

Note that power listed above will guarantee a close race, but this power assumes the fastest cars will eventually start driving "cold." It can be dangerous if any one of them begins to warm up, then maintains this status lap after lap. Add 10 horsepower for a higher guarantee of winning.

The above ratios have been calculated with the very best cars and grids available.

The Laguna Seca 200 is similar to the Professional Series Muscle Car Championship, since the exact same cars which showed up at that race are now here again. The main difference is that strictly American automobiles don't have to be entered for this enduro. Go ahead and think outside of that box.

Bank accounts also don't have to be emptied for this one, in fact, we're now in a nice profit-zone with the money-earning. Something in our garage might be able to take this on easily.

Three stops in total. Planning is still necessary though, so here's some advice.

Unlike the A-spec version of this race, it's a good idea to give B-spec drivers something which is more competent. So no VW Beetles or PT Cruisers! On the other hand, one of the main differences between A and B-spec is they don't have just one pit stop to base all their decisions on; instead they'll be taking multiple stops, as seen before at Grand Valley and Tsukuba.

Basically, drivers are the weakest link now. Not tires or fuel consumption.

Notice that the B-spec version of this 200 miler pays far less than our version? There's a reason for this.

Another difference between A and B-spec is the way those drivers actually drive, and this has a lot to do with grids. If a grid is chosen with a group of top cars (and so far I have only chosen grids which feature the best), then these monsters will compete very strongly with one another during opening laps. After that first pit stop though, the drivers who take their place usually don't go at it with as much verve.

And this is because they usually get into positions which aren't close to one another, and we all know what happens when they do this, right?

So the bottom line is the Laguna Seca 200's B-spec version is nowhere near as intense as the A-spec version; don't be fooled during those opening laps, when our driver falls behind. After that first pit stop, it'll now be us that's way too far ahead, although this assumes we're paying attention.

I have tried to calculate for perfect competitive power, but sometimes the 200 will eventually lose its passion. For those who want to see something even more competitive, enlist a lesser-skilled driver, and/or put the car on harder tires for higher lap times.

NO oil change

Hard, Medium, and Soft sport tires

Factory transmission in most cases, for those interested in better fuel economy, which saves time during the pit stop. Close-ratio units can be used for those with super-tall gears, and full-custom gears should be reserved for those who can't solve some sort of problem with fixed boxes.

Drivetrain parts as needed. We can use clutch, flywheel, and driveshaft parts to fine-tune our lap times as we practice. Limited-slips should be reserved for cars with real traction issues.

Fixed or height-adjustable suspension for most muscle and tuners. Sports Cars can often go on their factory parts.

If we're trying to equip anything better than a sports suspension to help some loser car compete better, good luck with this!

Brake balancer only for those with super-horrible handling issues (excessive understeer, for instance) that can help lessen these issues with better braking.

Cars:

'96 Lotus Elise (1,500 pounds, Sports Car Class)

'02 Chrysler Prowler (2,500 pounds, Tuner/Muscle Class)

'99 Subaru Impreza Sport Wagon (3,000 pounds, Tuner/Muscle Class)

'00 Ford Mustang SVT Cobra R (3,500 pounds, Tuner/Muscle Class)

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(2,000) 3.01 = 665 hp

This time the class system shall focus on Class 1 (full-class racing cars like the ones in the actual race) and Class 2 (First-class LM racing machines, prototypes, and any others which don't quite fit the usual). At this time, Class 2 is theoretical. It depends on how 'lazy' the competition gets later on in the race. Let's find out.

200 laps around the Indy oval. Again, I'm using downplayed power. Don't be surprised to find your B-spec team falling to the rear of the pack during initial laps.

But it's all about the strategy. As the race wears on and laps unfold, certain drivers who get separated from the pack begin to fall behind. All the sudden there'll be someone to draft; easy prey for our own driver, who has been goaded to stay awake just as situations like this present themselves. Right?

As stated during A-spec version of this race, only open-top European machines show up to Indy. Unfortunately, America's front-engined Panoz LMP-1 Roadster is not in the game, so the States aren't being represented. But neither are any racers from Asia.

The Audi R8 (non-PlayStation version) does better than everyone else for some reason. If more than one of these show they'll often gang up, drafting one another, sometimes with a Pescarolo or two.

These top racers have a habit of forming into packs during initial laps. Between laps 3 and 10 these packs begin to separate themselves so that there will be one pack way up front, another pack maybe 3 or 4 seconds behind, another pack 7 or 8 seconds behind, and so on.

Though it may seem scary for those who use this guide to see their drivers falling far behind, the Strategy section comes next.

There are two ways to attempt this race, and it all comes down to pit stops. The opponents take a total of five or SIX stops, but they do this not according to tire wear or fuel, driver fatigue is what they fear.

Tires. As per the A-spec version, two grades of tires can be used. Medium tires are most recommended. As seen during A-spec, it's possible to go between 40 and 50 laps, maybe wearing just over half the tread away at the most. This means a total of THREE (maybe four) stops throughout the entire race.

Hard tires can also be chosen, however there's no advantage here really. Fuel will run out before tires do. So...

Fuel should be topped up during early stops, just to go the distance. A few liters can be skimped here and there, just to make the stop that much quicker. But only during that final stop should a drastically lower amount of fuel be taken.

So where I'm making time is by keeping my drivers ON the track instead of pulling them in early. Yes my drivers' Strength and Mental Strength metes will go completely dark and stay that way for many laps. Some folks might get freaked out by this. But relax. Lack of full stats barely makes a dent in the way they actually drive.

Medium Racing Tires

Aerodynamics set over 50 (Class 1)

Aerodynamics set to 35 max (Class 2)

Transmission set about 250 mph (402 km/h) to 260 (418).

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(2,400) 5.68 -- 422 hp (dry track)

(2,600) 6.00 -- 433 hp

The power above is risky if the fastest rides (mostly Hondas) compete with each other, or with slower backmarkers, throughout the entire race. Thing is, most races are not like this. They are dull, with a lack of competition between cars.

Assuming they don't compete much your car should have no problem keeping up. But once in a while there will be an event during which they're on their game more often than usual...

Use up to 40 horsepower less for races with intermittent or full rain, assuming the car being entered gains advantages when the track is wet. AWD, for instance. This is a gamble, of course. More power can be removed if the race starts with close to 100% wetness than if it begins with less than (say) 40%.

Unlike the A-spec version of this race, the NSX does not need to be started downfield. We can start them on Pole, or in last place.

Unlike the A-spec version of the Suzuka 1000km, the B-spec version is mostly about strategy and patience, and entering a suitable car. This car will not need to be stacked with power though; in fact, doing so will guarantee an ultimately sleepy race to watch.

I suspect that most gamers simply never stuck around to watch this one...which is what the "Pit Strategy" button is for. They could simply enter a car which has roughly the same amount of power as the Super GTs in this event, set their Pit Strategy a certain way, and then it won't even matter if the driver of this car begins driving "cold," because now all they had to do maybe monitor some initial laps, watch their driver get to 1st place, and then walk away while changing the channel.

But for people who actually want to watch and pay attention to the action in this race, we'll need something to keep us interested, right? >:)~

The Honda NSX is still our main opponent, but since this is B-spec, eventually even these aerodynamic monsters will begin to have troubles. This is especially true once they break away from traffic, and immediately begin driving "cold."

However, dry races are generally more daring than wet races, sometimes. There's more close-knit action between our competitors on a dry track, sometimes even late in the race. Those who do get ahead and go cold will begin catching up to backmarkers. Suddenly they're alert again! If we're not on the front lines as they go from cold to hot, this can be bad if we're (say) half-a-lap behind.

During initial laps, typically we'll see our car stuck in traffic, falling behind the others due to lack of power. But don't reload! As time goes on, traffic begins to thin. Our car will eventually catch somebody who has begun to drive conservatively, and has fallen behind the pack. This car gets passed (hopefully), and sooner or later, somebody else gets passed. Then somebody else.

1). Strategy point #1 is to keep communication with your driver. Unlike all the other crews who don't do this, it's important to keep telling our driver to Maintain Pace, Speed Up, or Overtake, or even Slow Down when this command is needed (Hairpin and Casio Triangle). This is what will initially help us pass those early slackers.

2). Then the pit stops begin. B-spec requires more pit stops than A-spec does, since driver fatigue is more of the determining factor, not tire wear or fuel consumption. However, WE won't always need to call our driver in right away.

I've kept drivers out there for up to 20 laps, which is maybe 8 stops, with medium tires. The others will be coming in every 14 to 17 laps if the track is dry, which is 10 to 12 stops. Those who roll many cold laps will spend longer on the track, but they'll also be moving slower.

3). We won't always have to take a nearly-full tank like we did during A-spec; often during that first stop, we can shave time by not taking any fuel at all. As the race continues, eventually we will need some fuel of course, but we won't always have to take that full tank our crew automatically recommends.

4). We can also choose to give our driver some soft tires instead of mediums (which is what the rest of the field will be using). While this seems cheaty, it is also legal, and sometimes necessary during those early-to-middle laps, since we're using less power. Soft tires don't last as long as mediums of course, that's the catch.

5). As stated, it is also possible for more-experienced B-speccers to stay out there a few extra laps, even as their Strength and Mental Strength go completely dark. This can get risky, but only if our driver is pushing that aggression meter deep into the red zone at all times. If our driver keeps on the cool-to-middle side of that meter (and we also tell this driver to "Slow Down" if they're hot, and about to do something stupid), it is possible for an energy-sapped driver to stay out there, which means less stops overall.

6). The final suggestion only occurs during races in which rain is falling. In general, a day with 100% rain will stay at 100%, or at least this is what I've observed so far. A day which is completely dry will generally stay completely dry. But there are some races which start somewhere in between 0 and 100%. And there are some cars (like the Cusco Dunlop Subaru I used*) which do well in the wet.

In other words, you can search for grids which feature track-wetness which is between 0 and 100%, and some cars, like that Subaru, will do better than the others in this weather.

* I should note that my Subaru continued to do well even after the rain stopped and the track dried, but this was mostly because the competition had thinned. During dry races, drivers will fluctuate between hot and cold more often.

As hinted, certain cars might not do so well if it's raining at the start of the race. Search for a dry track and blue skies for one of these.

Eventually, once we're deep into this race: Lap 100 or so, maybe even earlier, there's a chance that none of these strategies will even be required anymore. Our driver might be so far ahead of the pack, due to other teams not keeping their aggressions' up!

Full rack of Racing Tires

Full aerodynamics kit, with a front spoiler number no lower than 35, although I am suspecting we can use cars with less downforce than this. TBA.

'08 Cusco Dunlop Subaru Impreza (2,424 pounds, with the math above low-rated slightly to 2,400. This car was used during a partially-wet track day.)

'04 Audi A4 Touring Car (2,400 pounds, driven on a dry day). I hybrided this car with all-wheel drive and a weaker 2.7 V6 from an Audi RS4.

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Nürburgring 4 Hours

(2,400) 6.82 -- 352 hp

(2,400) 6.06 -- 396 hp

(2,600) 6.33 -- 411 hp

(the power above is too much! try less in future. 10 hp less for each weight class)

The cars above have not had oil changes or engine rebuilds done. It is possible to enter them into this race with these services done. Make sure to subtract the proper amount of power from your car's current power, to reflect how much will be left once oil has broken down.

Winged cars are those which include front aerodynamics which are numbered in the parts menu. These aerodynamics don't need to be adjustable, and I'm recommending a maximum of 20 up front.

The ratios above include grids which do NOT include the Audi R8 LMS (a RACE car) or Amuse S2000 GT1 (either car: turbo or non-turbo) along with Class B. Any of these will destroy the others.

It is important to find a good grid to compete against.

Four hours, meaning that this race is not just about the number of laps. During the last hour, a countdown begins, reminding the player of many things. Like, DON'T take that pit stop with just 8 minutes to go, even if your driver's Strength is completely gone. The only reason for a pit stop this late in the race will be fuel, of course. Low on fuel? You've got no choice for previous bad pit stop choices.

The 4 Hours of Nürburgring includes the same group of cars which appeared in the Tuning Car Grand Prix, with a few new faces. It will probably be the very last Gran Turismo 5 race I'll be writing up for this guide. 9 hours of Tsukuba just sounds too boring to endure, and the 24 hour races might fry just up my 4-year old PS3.

Then again, those two 24 hour races might just warrant the purchase of PS3 #3. ;)

With the power I'm recommending, you will see your car fall far behind during initial laps, which is good for three reasons: Number 1, strategy really comes into play, especially with pit stops. Number 2: our slow automobile has a tendency to keep most of the pack active. As our car nears the ones in front of it, they'll tend to not fall half-asleep. They'll tend not to slow down as much. Number 3: ... which keeps the race watchable and fun.

As per the A-spec version of this race, again, I have structured two main classes, with Class A being generally faster than Class B. The good news is, there are even more members added into B, while a few get removed from A.

Group A
'04 Amuse S2000 GT1 Turbo

'04 Amuse S2000 GT1 (non turbo) 177 mph*

'08 Audi R8 LMS

'86 RUF BTR
'87 RUF BTR "Yellowbird"

Really, there are only two to worry about here: the Amuses. Both RUFs are blindingly fast, but suffer from the same problems they did during the TCGP; in effect, they'll occasionally take turns too hot and slide out, and there's a lot of turns for them to screw up.

On the other hand, if the RUFs can get to the point that they begin driving cold, they can turn faster laps than Class B, if they are also driving cold.

Group B.
AEM S2000

'04 Amuse Carbon R

'08 HKS CT230R 170 mph
'07 HPA Motorsports F565 Twin Turbo TT 190 mph

'xx HPA Motorsports Stage II R32 173 mph*

'01 Mine's BNR34 Skyline GT-R N1 (base) 202 mph

'01 Mine's BNR34 Skyline GT-R N1 V-spec
'03 Nismo Fairlady Z Z-tune 185 mph

'00 Nismo Skyline GT-R S-tune

'00 Nismo Skyline GT-R R-tune                              201 mph
'96 RUF CTR2                                                             197 mph
'00 RUF RGT

The top speeds mentioned above were observed down the main straight area, of course. If there's an asterisk next to a car's speed, this means it hit its RPM limit.

Group B is really where the action is. Include as many of these folks on the grid as you can, and it'll be awhile before action subsides. Some Skylines which were previously part of Group C during the TCGP now do an especially good job keeping up, since they can hit faster top speeds than many others which would normally dominate. During the Tuning Car Grand Prix, these slower cars maybe only did well during tracks with long straight areas.

Skylines and other AWDs like Audis also have the advantage of tire wear. They tend to wear their tires more evenly, while RWDs fry up their rears, and begin sliding around.

Overall though, it's usually going to be the Amuse S2000 GT1 (turbo or non-turbo) who will wind up being the main car of this 4-hour race. Ironically, the non-turbo version is not as fast as many Group Bs; in fact its top speed lags, especially behind Skylines and Z-cars. But this Amuse has better fuel management than the others. It also can turn faster laps than the others, once everyone is driving cold.

If a car is not mentioned above, it is in Class C, which means it won't be anybody's sort of threat. Class C can sometimes hold up faster cars during that first lap or two (while we get a sizable lead if we happen to break through traffic), but otherwise C is nothing to fear.

The Car: It's important to choose something which will keep up with the others, and not blow them away. Touring cars, and others which boast medium to high aerodynamics, should be avoided. Instead, now we can get into that list of cars whose aerodynamics aren't so high, topping at 15 to 20 up front. It may also be possible to enter cars which haven't got any aerodynamic figures showing at all, though I haven't experimented with this.

Fuel: Unlike some other enduros, fuel management does come back into play. During that first stop, everybody is forced to fill their tanks, even though most cars haven't burned more than half a tank. So it's easy to take (let's say) 30 liters instead of 50, and immediately gain some huge advantages. After this first stop though, it's a better idea to take at least a 3/4 tank.

Tires: For the most part, medium racing slicks are going to be used, and that's what I used for the bulk of this guide. Softs can be tried if we desperately need to catch up, and Hards can be used if some kind of 'penalty' is being enforced.

Unfortunately, by the time everyone starts taking their second stops, that's usually when the action starts to die down. By now, the grid is usually stretched so far apart from one another. On the other hand, you never know what'll happen with this race. As long as the Amuses are kept off the grid, I've seen many others rejoin each other late into the race (as many as six at a time) , and start sparring once again.

Medium Racing Tires mostly, with Softs and Hards ready if needed.

Height-adjustable or Full-custom Suspension.

Full-customized transmission set anywhere from 220 to 240 mph, depending where peak horsepower lies on the tach. Cars with .

'05 Subaru Impreza WRX STI Spec C Type RA RM (2,400 / winged)

'99 Subaru Impreza Sport Wagon WRX STi Ver. VI (2,400 / unwinged)

'04 Chevrolet Corvette Z06 (2,600 / unwinged, but GT Auto aerodynamics installed) @ 900 miles