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EASY
* In all Easy League Special Condition races, use sport
or semi-racing suspension. In some cases, you can even use stock parts.
* Don't forget to buy tires appropriate
for the road surface you'll be racing on, too (dirt tires for off-road, snow tires for ice/snow tracks).
Some racing will be done on pavement, too. I have no idea what tires the Ai uses, but I've calculated each race so that you'll
be driving on S3 (soft sport tires) if you are driving a front-drive car, or S2
(medium sports) if you are driving a rear or 4-wheel drive. This is not set-in-stone, however.
In some
cases, you can modify these requirements, like putting medium sport tires on a front-drive if it has too much prowess, or
using N3 radials for a rear-drive. And sometimes, a combo of these tires (S2 up front mixed with S1s on the rear, for
instance) are appropriate to combat understeer or other issues.
* Most cars should also typically have
racing brakes (but no controller), but trucks & SUVs, or certain cars that stop on a dime like
Evos and STis often can have stock brakes.
* In addition to all the things listed in this orange
text, any additional part requirements are listed for various races below.
Please note the following
abbreviations:
FF= Front Engine / Front Drive
FR= Front Engine / Rear Drive
MR= Mid Engine / Rear Drive
RR=
Rear Engine / Rear Drive
AWD= All Wheel Drive
4WD= Four Wheel Drive
Rally d' Umbria
(Citta di Aria)
FWD
10.34 (1,500) = 145 hp
13.48 (2,400) =
178 hp 14.88 (3,200) = 215 hp
Other
drivetrains (AWD, FR, MR, & RR)
11.07 (1,650) = 149 hp 17.75 (3,000) = 169 hp
*The ratios
above are useful for both directions of the Citta di Aria track.
Possible competitors include a 1980 Renault
5 Turbo, 1991 Lancia Delta HF Integrale Evoluzione, 1986 Toyota Celica 2000GT-four and 1982
Audi Quattro. Out of these, the Lancia is the least clumsy, so you may need to boost your power slightly by
just a few horses (no more than 5 bhp) if you are racing against it.
The Renault 5 Turbo makes a major mistake
in the reverse direction...running head-first into a wall near the tight hairpin on the west side of the track...you
can choose to seriously limit your power against this car when running the Reversed direction. Or not run against the 5 at
all. If you get a 5 second penalty during the
very first (very sharp) turn of the reversed track, don't worry. It's very easy to get a penalty in this turn, yet still be
able to get ahead of the enemy. It's hard not to get clumsy here, oftentimes they screw up worse than we do, and as they get
back on their feet (smashing into us), that's when the penalty happens.
A Fiat Panda stage 3 weight redux + a few pounds of ballast was used to get the 1,500 flyweight Front-Drive category. I used
a Chrysler PT Cruiser with stage 3 reduction + 22 pounds to get the middle-weight class (2,400 pounds), and a Ford
Taurus SHO with stage 1 + 275 pounds to get the heavy weight class (3,200). I used a Triumph Spitfire with
stage 3 + some ballast to get the lightweight (1,650) class, and a BMW 120i to get the 3,000 pound weight class.
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Costa di Amalfi
(Capri Rally)
FWD (normal direction)
10.56 (1,500) =
158 hp
14.28 (2,400) = 195 hp 15.61
(3,200) = 205 hp FWD (reverse direction) 9.74 (1,500) = 154 hp 11.82 (2,400) = 203 hp 13.61 (3,200) = 235 hp
Other drivetrains (normal direction) 13.31 (1,650) =
124 hp 18.86 (3,000) = 159 hp
Other
drivetrains (reverse direction)
11.46 (1,650) =144 hp 16.95 (3,000) = 177
hp
This is an important one to win since our prize (the Toyota RSC Raid Rally Car) awards a lot of money
after selling it. Countless hundreds of thousands of players have fattened their bank account by doing these 2 runs over and
over.
Again, we have the same 4 competitors found at Citta di Aria plus a new one: the Toyota Celica RC.
Capri is no easier to drive around than Aria, but the Ai isn't quite as clumsy here. Instead, they tend to drive with more
care...less wall-banging. The Toyota Celica RC tends to drive with more conviction than the other 3 here, so give
a few extra horses if you can't keep up with it.
* I used the same cars to get ratios for this
course as i did at Citta di Aria
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Grand Canyon 2003
Front
(Engine/ Rear Drive)
6.03 (2,400) = 398 hp 9.25 (2,900) = 400 hp 8.81
(3,700) = 420 hp
Cars (AWD. MR, & RR) 8.81 (2,000) = 227 hp 10.15 (2,700) = 266 hp 11.42
(3,300) = 289 hp
4WD Trucks & SUVs
12.14 (3,350) = 276 hp 12.29 (4,475) = 364 hp
*note:
it is also possible (but tricky) to drive a rear-drive truck here. Add 50 to 75 horsepower
if you do so. 50 if your truck manuvers tightly, and up to 75 if it manuvers more sloppily.
Get
ahead early at Grand Canyon, Ice Arena, Chamonix, and other off-road tracks, unless you feel very confident that you
can pass them later. But if you don't feel confident, it won't hurt if you pass the Ai just seconds after you start these
races...in many cases you'll still be challenged thruout the rest of the race, your opponent just a few car-lengths behind. The
reason to get ahead early is those dreaded 5-second penalties. You'll have much less risk
of "earning" them as long as you know each course well and can stay ahead. If you're driving a good-handling all-wheel
drive car that can keep up with the Ai, it's not as mandatory to get ahead early, but otherwise, follow my advice.
To
be safe, it is best to drive an all-wheel drive (AWD) or four-wheel drive (4WD) vehicle, however, it is also possible
to run at Grand Canyon in a rear-drive car or truck if you have some skills! Old muscle cars and some vintage machines do
surprisingly well at this and other off-road courses.
The rear-drive Renault 5 Turbo can show
up here, and is the worst opponent you'll face. Remove some power if it shows up. The rear-drive '74
Mitsubishi Lancer GSR rally car can also show up here and drives Grand Canyon very well, and you won't
need to remove as much power. The other Ai are the exact same guys we saw in the first 2 events (Lancia
Delta, Audi Quattro, etc.)
At Grand Canyon, and many other off-road tracks, many cars
& trucks of all types can use close or super-close gearing, sometimes with an assortment of other
drivetrain parts like a better clutch, flywheel, and/or driveshaft. These recommendations include racing at Ice Arena,
Chamonix, Swiss Alps, and any other Easy races, because these tracks are so tight and require short-throw gearboxes.
Some
all and 4-wheel drive cars and trucks won't need differential help, but rear-drive models usually need a fixed
differential (1-way, 1.5-way, or 2-way).
Semi-racing suspension another good
buy, so we can adjust both springs & ride height. Some cars (like STis, Evos, and other stellar AWD performers) can go
with all stock parts in Easy Special Condition events.
In many modern trucks, SUVs, and all-wheel drive cars,
brake upgrades of any kind are not an absolute necessity off-road.
Cars i used to get the above ratios:
'85 RX-7 GT-Limited: (2,400 front-engine/rear drive car)
'69
Camaro Z/28 (2,900 FR cars category).
'69 Dodge Charger: (3,700 pound FR cars).
'92 Mitsubishi Lancer: (2,700 pound
4WD cars).
Mitsubishi Airtrek: 1-1/2 ton (3,350) SUV category. Dodge Ram: (4,475 pounds) truck-class above.
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Whistler Ice Race
Ice Arena
AWD-Cars
**
9.01 (2,000) = 222 hp 10.67 (2,700) = 253 hp 11.83
(3,300) = 279 hp
4WD-Trucks & SUVs
12.14 (3,350) = 276 hp 12.29 (4,475) = 364 hp
**: For mid-engine and rear-engine
cars, calculate using the Cars/AWD ratios above, but add 15 to 20 extra horsepower.
The
W2P ratios are currently useable in both directions. An all-wheel drive or 4-wheel drive is highly recommended unless the
rear-drive '74 Mitsubishi Lancer shows up. I tried to make a front-engine/rear-drive category, but got too
frustrated trying to control my rear-drive RX-7 to calculate a workable ratio here. Some mid-engine or rear-engine cars can
tackle these. Keep in mind: MR cars have the necessary traction, but are very spin-happy on snow & ice.
⊸
You might not need a limited-slip for all-wheel drives (then again, you might). You will need at least a 2-way
unit for mid-engine cars, tho.
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Chamonix Rally
AWD, MR, & RR Cars
11.42 (2,000) = 175 hp 11.25 (2,700) =
240 hp 11.83 (3,300) = 279 hp
Trucks & SUVs
13.34 (3,350) = 251 hp 12.93 (4,475) = 346 hp
**it
is possible to run front-engine/rear-drive models (cars and trucks) here at Chamonix. Add 50 horsepower in the normal
direction and 70 in the reversed.
I've grown to like Chamonix more than Ice Arena, simply because Chamonix has
more of a flow. The Arena is not a very fun track, like Chamonix can be. Chamonix also has more sensible braking
points--less chance of the dreaded 5-second penalties for this reason.
Some of you may balk at the thought of using
a truck here, but in reality, keeping such a huge vehicle going in the direction you want takes discipline. The 5-second penalty
also removes any chance of cheaters simply bashing the Ai into oblivion.
The Lancia Delta and Toyota Celica
do better than other Ai that show up, probably because both Lancia and Toyota are on lower suspensions with an all-wheel drive
layout.
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George V Rally
(Paris/George)
FWD
9.74 (1,500) = 154 hp 10.92
(2,100) = 192 hp 13.44 (3,200) = 238 hp
15.59 (3,850) = 247
hp
Other drivetrains (FR, MR, RR, AWD)
11.96
(1,650) = 138 hp 13.10 (2,175) = 166 hp 17.36 (2,500) = 144 hp
So many people hate this track, it's astounding. I dig George
V/Paris, but would have prefered PD bring back Rome Night (from GT2) instead, which is just as pretty but has more of a flow.
The ai consists of the same cars we've seen before, minus the '74 Lancer rally car. If the '80 Renault
5 Turbo or '91 Lancia Delta don't show up, you may need to subtract a few horses.
Cars I drove to acheive ratios
* Flyweight FWD (1,500 pounds):
Fiat Panda 1000S
* Lightweight FWD (2,100 pounds): Honda Civic CRX
* Middle-heavy FWD: (3,200 pounds) Ford
Taurus SHO,
* Heavyweight FWD (3,800 pounds): Volvo S80 T For
* Flyweight RWD (1,650): '74 Triumph Spitfire
* Lightweight RWD (2,175): ?
* Middleweight RWD (2,500): '91 Nissan Silvia Q's
Weight reductions and/or
ballast was added or removed to acheive various weights.
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Swiss Alps Rally
Cars--Front Drive
10.50 (3,100) = 295 hp
Cars--Front
Engine/Rear Drive
6.66 (2,000) 300
hp 7.99 (2,900) 323 hp Cars--AWD,
MR, & RR 8.81 (2,000) = 227 hp 10.15 (2,700) = 266 hp 11.91 (3,300) = 277 hp
Trucks & Suvs
14.82 (3,750) = 253 hp 12.46 (4,800) = 385 hp
*you may notice the reversed direction at Swiss Alps
is harder than the normal direction. Unless otherwise noted, all ratios are for the reversed direction. When
racing in the normal direction, remove 70 horsepower or more, if you can.
Here
we finally have some new ones to race against. The '92 Mitsubishi Lancer GSR, '95 Mitsubishi Lancer GSR Evo III,
'95 Subaru Impreza WRX Sti II, and '03 Ford Focus RS show up along with other cars which
previously made appearances. For best results, race against AWD (all-wheel drive) cars. You'll need to remove even MORE
power if you choose to race against rear or front-drives. Here's why....
Swiss Alps is by far the easiest
of the Easy league, especially in the normal direction. I had to add lots of weight to the trucks & suvs i've driven
here just to make things competitive, but sometimes i still wound up getting ahead.
Use stock,
close or super-close gearing with single-plate clutch for cars, unless you've got way
too easy a win. Stock, sport or semi-racing suspension, too, depending on if your car has qualities you want
to downplay or exalt. Sports brake package (no controller).
Lighter RWD historic or classic cars
may need ballast located towards the rear to help them gain traction in the slippery dirt. I usually move the ballast pointer
25 towards the right. Be careful with this. Too much rear ballast will cause the front of the car to lift up too
much, losing control over the hillock jumps.
If you drive an all-wheel drive car, truck,
or SUV that kicks too much ass, you might want to enter it completely stock except for a more
appropriate transmission. Mid-Engine or Rear-Engine/ Rear Drive cars.might need a fixed differential (1-way,
1.5-way, or 2-way). This goes for Rear-Drive trucks, too.
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Tour of Tahiti
(Tahiti Maze)
FWD
Cars (against '74 Lancer)
8.50 (2,100) = 247 hp
FR
Cars
7.78 (2,000) = 257 hp 6.79
(2,900) = 427 hp 8.88 (3,900) = 439 hp
AWD, MR, & RR Cars
10.31 (2,000) = 193 hp 11.45 (3,000) = 262 hp 11.91
(3,300) = 277 hp
Trucks/SUVs-4WD
12.74
(3,350) = 263 hp 15.32 (5,300) = 345 hp
*the
above ratios allow for some cat-and-mouse type battles with multiple lead-changes possible, while still keeping somewhat of
an edge. You can remove more power if you want an even closer fight, but you'll be forced to get ahead of the enemy as early
as possible, and STAY ahead.
Some mid or rear-engine/ rear drive cars, especially those that need plenty
of off-throttle moments in corners, may need an additional few extra horses (no more than +10) after calculating from
above.
Everyone remembers Tahiti Maze, right? If you race against the '74 Mitsubishi Lancer, it is possible
to use a front-drive car. I used a Civic SiR. In all other cases, you'll need a rear-drive or 4-wheel drive of some
sort. Notice that the Truck/SUV category lists 4WD models. If you choose to race a rear-drive truck, you'll need to add
about 75 horsepower (possibly more).
A new hotshot kid shows up in a '85
Peugeot 205 Turbo at Tahiti. The 205 often drives badly in GT4 pavement races, but really kills this course. The
'91 Toyota Celica GT-FOUR RC is slightly slower than the Peugeot, perhaps because of its weight. These
two cars drive better than the other Ai that are still showing up (Audi Quattro, Toyota Celica 2000GT, Lancia
Delta HF Integrale etc), and this Peugeot will try to murder us in those hairpins.
If someone other
than the Peugeot 205 or Toyota Celica RC shows up, remove 10 to 100 horsepower. For
instance, if you're driving a tricky-handling rear-drive car, and want to race against the Lancia Delta
Audi Quattro, or '86 Celica, remove a small amount of power. But if you're in an Evo or an Audi or some other confident
all-wheel drive, remove as much power as you can to get a closer race.
i used a '71 Datsun 240Z-G
for the lightweight historic class (2,000 pounds) a '69 Chevy Camaro Z/28 for the middleweight (3,000), and a '69 Dodge
Charger R/T for the heavyweight (3,900). For truck/SUV category, i used a Mitsubishi Airtrek (3,350) and a Dodge
Ram (4,500). In all cases, weight was reduced and/or ballast was added to get exact weights.
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Tsukuba (wet track)
Cars--Front Engine/RWD
10.13 (2,400) // 12.72 (3,500)
Cars--AWD, MR, & RR
11.63 (2,000) // 12.77 (3,000) // 15.48 (3,700)
Trucks & SUVs--AWD or 4WD
13.24 (3,350) // 16.47 (5,700)
It has
rained at Tsukuba, and we get to race. Oddly, it never seems to rain anywhere else in GT4. Or perhaps they wait till it's
absolutely dry at other locations? Whatever the reason, i hate the fact that we can race a wet track at Tsukuba, but nowhere
else. :grumpy:
The Ai is upgraded. The superior Nissan Skline GT-R V-spec II Nur, Lotus 111R, Mazda RX-8
Type S, and Mitsubishi Lancer Evo. VIII RS take over; apparently all the other drivers previously seen get
a day off. If the Lotus shows up, remove 10 horsepower. If the Mazda
shows up, remove 20.
In most cases, all-wheel drive or mid & rear engine cars have an easier time than front-drive
or front-engine/rear-drive cars, but it is possible to win with an FF or FR car.
For superior
handling AWD, FR, MR, or RR cars & trucks, S2 medium sport tires or a combo of S2 and S1
tires. Sport supsension. Close or super close gearing if you need it.
For
poor-handling front drive or FR cars, use S3 soft sport tires or a combination of some sort.
All other parts can be as listed above. Although tires don't heat up in Special Event races, it's nice to have just
a bit more grip & traction for those that can't handle the wetness.
2-wheel drives of any sort (including
mid or rear-engine autos) will probably need one of the fixed differentials (1-way, 1.5, or 2-way),
unless they manuever well in the first place. Most all-wheel drive cars and trucks, however, shouldn't need any
"help" here.
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Cathedral
Rocks Trail I & II
(Yosemite Rally I & II)
Front-Drive
11.86 (2,100) // 14.66 (2,800) // 15.25 (3,400)
*driving
lightweight front drive cars is nearly impossible (which means possible) in the reverse direction, but
heavier FF cars do better since they can get better traction. add 40 horsepower in reverse to any front-drive.
Historic Cars--Front Engine/RWD
8.13 (1,650) // 11.26 (3,300)
Post '80s Cars--Front Engine/RWD
15.06 (2,500)
*basically,
any car that handles relatively well can be classed in the "Post '80s" group, even if it's technically a "Historic" car. The
BMW 2002 is a good example. Cars that handle poorly, don't have good traction, and are hard to control with
excessive sliding can also use "Historic" ratios, even if they are post '80s.
Cars--AWD.
MR, & RR
12.27 (2,000) // 13.70 (2,700) //
Trucks & SUVs
14.82 (3,750) // 12.99 (5,000)
*
I've found that the Dodge Ram (which is a 4x4) kills this course, even with maximum ballast and minimum power. So the mega-weight
class above (5,000 pounds) features rear-drive trucks instead. Some of you may find that even rear-drive trucks are overkill!
The middleweight (3,750) class was created with an AWD SUV, however.
Now this is interesting. I've had
GT4 this long, and there's an off-road track on the inside of El Capitan? I did not know that.
One of
the best things about this track is that it's tricky and technical, yet offers plenty of areas to get a good, clean pass.
You DON'T need to worry about getting ahead early here. Even with reduced power, it's very possible to pass your opponent
much later in the race. Some tasty cat-and-mouse type battles are also possible at Cathedral Rocks (front-drives being the
only exception), so long as you're good about staying in the right place so no annoying 5-second penalties are activated.
The original quintet of Ai found in other Easy races appear at Cathedral. Follow the guidelines below.
>The
'91 Toyota Celica GT-Four RC drives best. Use the above ratios with no modifications if you race against it.
>The
Lancia Delta Integrale HF and Audi Quattro are slightly slower so remove
5 horses or more if they show at the Cathedral Rocks I tracks. You might not need to remove this at the all off-road
Cathedral II, though.
>The Renault 5 is (again) slightly slower, so
remove 10 to 20 horses from the above calculated ratios if it shows up. 10 if you're driving a front-drive,
20 if you're driving anything else.
>Finally, the '86 Toyota Celica 2000GT does poorly at Cathedral
Rocks I (the track that is both on and off-road), so if it shows here, remove 20 horses or more. The
Celica does drive Cathedral Rocks II (100% off-road version) better, so don't modify any ratios here.
Use the same parts here recommended at other Easy off-road tracks. In case you've forgotten, this includes: semi-racing
suspension. If your car handles extremely well off-road, you can use sports or even stock
suspension parts. Use a stock, close or super-close gears with an assortment of drivetrain
parts as you need.
The sports/racing brake kit is not absolutely needed at
tighter off-road tracks for trucks & suvs, but a good buy here at Cathedral Rocks, since some of the braking
distances are longer at Cathedral Rocks than they are at other off-road tracks. Limited slip upgrades are optional, especially
for many AWD cars, but mandatory for most rear-drive cars.
Cars i used
*Front Drive light (2,100): '90
Honda CR-X SiR
* Front Drive mid-weight (2,800 pounds): Ford Focus ST
*Historic rear drive (1,650 pounds): '74
Triumph Spitfire
*Historic rear-drive (3,300 pounds): '69 Camaro Z/28
* Post '80s mid-weight (2,500): '91 Nissan
Silvia Q's
*AWD/MR/RR class lightweight: (2,000) '80 Renault 5 Turbo & Alpine A310 1600VE
* AWD/RR/MR class
mid-weight: (2,700): '86 Toyota Celica 2000 GT-Four
* SUV/Truck mid-weight (3,750 pounds): Mitsubishi Airtrek
*SUV/Truck
heavyweight (5,000): Ford F-150 SVT
weight reductions and/or ballast was added or reduced to create exact weights.
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